11-09-2020
Until the 24th August, the Ricciardella family opened Cascina Vittoria in Rognano, the first town in the province of Pavia after Milan’s metropolitan area. Thirty years ago it had only 107 inhabitants. With some real estate investments they are now 632, but it is still a large agricultural reality, a green area perfect for relaxing.
The Ricciardellas behind the counter at Cascina Vittoria in Rognano (Pavia). Left to right Alessandro, event manager; Simone, dining room manager; Giovanni, chef; dad Giuseppe, patron and master of ceremonies in the vegetable garden and the dining room; Marco, sommelier
L’orto in tavola e gel di agrumi – vegetables from the kitchen garden with citrus fruits
In mid-July it was hard for me to decide which recipe I preferred, given everything was of such high quality. Giovanni has the rare gift of expressing his talent with meat, fish, pasta (even homemade) and rice, pizza, bread and leavened products. If I really were to put aside something, that would be the veal bone marrow cooked slowly in the wood oven, but only because it’s perfect for the winter.
The start with L’orto in tavola e gel di agrumi [vegetables from the kitchen garden with citrus fruits] got everyone ready to enjoy the magnificent “Riso Buono” with raw ham and melon; Durum wheat thick Spaghetti with Belgian butter, anchovy colatura from Cetara and peperone crusco; the bone marrow, a bit out of place in mid-July; the fantastic arrosticini from Abruzzo; the roasted pigeon, leg and breast, with sauce of aceto balsamico tradizionale; Chargrilled veal with tuna sauce and a bright and intense selection of cheeses before the desserts: Fake panna cotta, toffee sauce; Vanilla cheesecake and savoury biscuit.
Roasted pigeon, leg and breast, with a sauce of aceto balsamico tradizionale
«And now the risotto. Warm up a casserole, pour in the rice and toast it dry, without adding anything, and then we cook it to 3/4 with some vegetal broth. Now add the cream of melon, 280 grams per 4 people, and finish the cooking. At the end, away from the heat, mix with butter, extra virgin olive oil, a little Parmigiano, some drops of white wine vinegar and dish out spreading the rice on the plate. Now add the prosciutto bottarga and the sauce of melon and lemon thickened with very little Xanthan gum.
«This dish has the basic element of rice, the sweetness of melon, the sapidity of the prosciutto bottarga and the flavours of the summer». I agree.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
A mouth watering page, published every Sunday in Il Giornale from November 1999 to the autumn of 2010. Stories and personalities that continue to live in this website
by
born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose. blog www.paolomarchi.it instagram instagram.com/oloapmarchi