Handover at 12 Apostoli in Verona. Left to right, Silvia Bernardocchi, Giancarlo Perbellini, Filippo and Antonio Gioco
After the excellent and very Milanese dinner at Trussardi’s with Giancarlo Perbellini only on Monday 20th February, the Veronese chef and restaurateur himself relaunched on Friday 24th. And in a big way too: in Verona, he announced that Casa Perbellini will move from the magical suburb of San Zeno to the city centre, to the same 12 Apostoli that have written the history of Italian fine dining thanks to the passion, intelligence and culture of chef and poet Giorgio Gioco.
Excellence on top of excellence since the dawn of time, with a second branch of the Gioco cousins that marked time and dishes at Arche, a fish restaurant already starred between 1984 to 1994.
Antonio and Filippo Gioco, father and son, hold up the 12 Apostoli sign, a restaurant made famous in Verona by Giorgio Gioco. In the middle a smiling Giancarlo Perbellini, the restaurant's new patron
With the arrival of Perbellini, scheduled to open in July, everything changes for the better in a space-time link with the past in the shape of Giorgio Gioco. Born in 1964, the scion of a family populated more by pastry chefs than by cooks, Giancarlo joined the brigade of 12 Apostoli at twenty. It was the first of many assertive and successful steps. There is an early Perbellini, from Isola Rizza, with one star since 1996 and then two, from 2002 to 2015. Then the move from the province to Verona, where he immediately got two stars, in a really pleasant but cramped space. Basically an XL-size restaurant in a smaller rather than larger suit.
Giorgio Gioco on TV in 1976, 'invited to tell how to prepare omelettes on TV show A tavola alle 7, a sort of culinary version of Non è mai troppo tardi', his son Antonio explained. With Giorgio can be recognised Luigi Veronelli and Ave Ninchi
Woe betide the falling stars. Perbellini invests and grows, having cancelled the old contract a few weeks ago without signing the new one yet. "One evening, while I was walking with my wife Silvia in the city centre past 12 Apostoli, we both had the same idea and said to each other “this would be the ideal place for our bigger Casa”. And as fate would have it, the next day we got a phone call from Antonio, Giorgio Gioco's son. It is true: if you can dream it, you can do it. I’m convinced that nothing comes by chance.”
Final note: until mid-June, Casa Perbellini will be the same as it has been for the past nine years. Then it will close to move the kitchen to the new location and start again in July. The Michelin guide has already been notified. The story continues.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
A mouth watering page, published every Sunday in Il Giornale from November 1999 to the autumn of 2010. Stories and personalities that continue to live in this website
born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose.