14-06-2016
Six months after losing a Michelin star, Combal.zero in Rivoli (Torino) is once again among the World’s 50 Best restaurants, at number 46. The different judgement from Michelin and 50Best strikes: "We have improved further and this is why the global jury rewarded us", immediately commented Davide Scabin (in the photo with his sous Beppe Rambaldi), "The French should explain the extra-culinary reasons of a promotion or failure. Because it can’t always be just a matter of cooking"
Devil of a Scabin: the French decrease his restaurant from 2 to 1 Michelin star and six months later the 50Best sends him back among the World’s 50 Best restaurants. And it’s not even the first time that the establishment from Rivoli takes part in the Gotha. The records go thus: debut in 2007 at number 46, out in 2008, first re-entrance in 2009, 42nd. Confirmed in 2010 and 2011 (when he reaches number 28, his all time best so far). In 2012 he’s once again out but in 2013 he makes a last-grasp effort and is back at 40th place. In 2014 he’s just outside the limits (51st), in 2015 he moves further back to 65. A few hours ago the surprise: Combal.zero is once again in the elite, 46th as in 2007. «I’ve left and come back 3 times from the 50 best», he explains, beaming, «I believe this is a record». So while the French noted a decrease last December («The result of various visits», the editor in chief at the Red Guide Sergio Lovrinovich reassured us), the global jury of the 50best sees his return among the World’s 50 Best, in front of a large group of 3-starred restaurants. Congratulations, chef. So, who’s right? These two worlds are structured in a very different way. I’m in New York now and let me say there’s no tool as powerful as the World’s 50Best. The interest it stimulates on a global and commercial scale is striking: from one moment to the next you’re at the centre of the world’s attention. As for the different criteria I don’t know what to say. What I know for sure is what happens between our walls: we have improved further and this is why the global jury rewarded us. Perhaps we sometimes make things whose value is difficult to assess immediately.
The new leader of the World's 50Best Massimo Bottura and Davide Scabin
The two tasting menus at Combal.zero: the “traditional” Down&Up menu goes from the lighter dish to the Piccione all’Ortolana (Pigeon with vegetables). The Up&Down instead starts with the more structured dish and ends with the most ethereal one, Insalata ghiacciata e ostriche, Ice salad with oysters.
On the spur of the moment you told us you might have spoken with those at the Red Guide. I preferred not to. They’d have the usual answer: ‘stars are added and removed because of the cooking’. I respect the approach. However, I believe that if the Michelin Guide wants to stay contemporary, it must be transparent. It should explain the extra-culinary reasons behind a promotion or failure. Because it can’t only be a matter of cooking.
Osteria Francescana is the number one restaurant in the world. It’s a great joy for Massimo. A long-time wish. Most of all, it’s a joy for all of us and for young Italians who can have a stronger belief in what they do.
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt