Since almost no one is ever a prophet in his own country, the fact that Enrico Crippa of Piazza Duomo in Alba won the “Omaggio al paesaggio della tavola” award, given by the Enoteca regionale del Roero can be explained by highlighting that the chef was adopted by Piedmont but was in fact born in Brianza; and by stressing that he’s not moved to Roero but he’s now a real citizen of the Langhe – and the fact the now anti-historic dualism or inferiority complex has been finally overcome is a good news, as proven by this celebration of the «sister-hills of the Langhe».
This award is indeed very much deserved, as Crippa has gheddu, that is to say “that extra something”, as explained by Davide Palluda of All'Enoteca, member of the jury together with Luciano Bertello and Giovanni Tesio, thus the co-author of a choice that was in fact very easy and almost dutiful.
This is because the prize, now in its ninth edition, the ceremony having taken place in the headquarters of the Enoteca, is given to vegetable gardens: and which vegetable garden would be better than the one desired by
Crippa? These 2.5 hectares – also “signed” by
Walter Danusso – of which the world speaks. So the chef can now have his name in an extremely prestigious gold book.
«There are many, often hidden interpreters of vegetable gardens in the Langhe – says Bertello – We wanted to acknowledge the more international one, a pride for a territory in which he was able to arrive with a pure approach: this allowed him to focus on what others, locals, could not grasp well enough».
Enrico Crippa with Angelo Gaja
In the words of
Palluda, «
Crippa has transformed his vegetable garden into a sort of altar, presenting a cuisine that is certainly not easy in the Langhe», a place unquestionably devoted to the pleasures of the... meat.
The event was the occasion for the debut of the collaboration between the Enoteca and the new-born Consorzio tutela vini Roero, represented by its president Francesco Monchiero: «The idea of creating a prize that would celebrate those who use products from the vegetable garden was a right one. The fact Crippa would be chosen, sooner or later, was unquestionable: he works even too close to Roero, but there are no doubts about his merits», he told us.
Finally, the word went to the person concerned. «It’s a great satisfaction, I received many awards around the world, but this is worth twice as much, in my opinion».
The future will not lead the chef outside of the Langhe, but this doesn’t mean there are no news ahead: «I love these places, the hills remind me of my Brianza, plus locals are strongly connected to the territory, a feeling that has a little disappeared where I come from. I like the farm-spirit of the people of the Langhe, who won’t trust you at first but then become fraternal friends. It is hard for me to think of leaving». This is why Crippa is not planning any farewells, in fact the opposite: «We have started two projects, always with the Ceretto family and always in this area: a place in Barolo, linked to wine, and a place with bedrooms, a sort of resort on the hills, in Diano d’Alba. Where we’ll cuddle our guests from morning to night». As for the timing plan, we’ll need to wait a few more years.
