Garfish tail – a food scrap – glazed with soy sauce, with a broth made from the head and bones of the garfish - a food scrap - in infusion with katsuobushi made with mackerel bones – a food scrap – and a brine of lemon scrap. No waste as interpreted by Valerio Serino from Tèrra in Copenhagen
Tèrra, which hasZero waste and sustainable restaurant as its slogan, is interesting as a restaurant in its own right – or rather as an "urban trattoria." Valerio Serino opened it in September 2017 with his wife Lucia De Luca in the neighbourhood of Østerbro in Copenhagen. This is the Nordic arrival point of the Roman chef, born in 1986 and previously working at Alitalia while his current career is in the kitchen, after he was charmed by cooking in North Europe and indeed his CV includes experience in other restaurants in the Danish capital, including Amass and Kanalen.
He says: «Here we must work to be accepted as we are, that is to say a new image of Italian cuisine which is more than pasta, it’s a mix of life experiences». Zero waste and sustainable restaurant is the plus that Tèrra wants to present compared to classic Italian fine dining abroad; or rather this is the philosophy of all of Serino’s work: «We decided to define ourselves as a zero waste restaurant. And we have managed to make this commitment into something real. In the new menu we use all of the food scraps, we maximise their use in multiple steps. In the end, only a little fibre is left», which becomes compost for the small vegetable garden they own.
The team at Tèrra: in the middle, Valerio Serino and wife Lucia De Luca
Asparagus, asparagus crumble, hazelnut butter
Preparing the garfish tail
Preparing the garfish filet with tomato jus made from the scraps of the marinating juice prepared for the same filet
An ongoing process of scrap reuse until everything is finished, «only the fibres are left, which we use as compost to grow our salads». The overall message: «Make people aware of these themes through a good dish, yet simple and poor. You need constant research, looking at the future with respect for products and enhancing their nature through contemporary techniques mixed with ancestral systems».
Does being in Copenhagen help with taking such choices in the kitchen? «It surely does. The area – due to climate – has always been poor of food resources. Hence we had to develop different techniques to preserve them fully, like brine or vinegar. We’re making use of this and thus recuperate these ancestral traditions, putting them to the test and comparing them to those of different cultures».
Fresh pasta from Serino’s lab close to the restaurant – it’s called Il Mattarello "Artisan And Organic Pasta"
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journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief