In November Francesco Mazzei – one of the most prominent ambassadors of Italian gastronomy abroad – returns to London, with his Mezzogiorno by Francesco Mazzei, within Corinthia London, a stunning luxury hotel which occupies the historic premises of a grand building between Trafalgar Square and the Thames.
We caught up during a short break in the busy run up to the opening, for a chat about his career so far and of course, for a sneak preview of his elegant new restaurant.
Francesco, was there a specific moment when you knew you’d become a chef?
«I never thought I would become a chef... I was helping out in my uncle’s shop to earn some pocket money when I was young. One day the person who would become a mentor of mine – hotelier Angelo Sabetta – after tasting a “mangia e bevi” I made for him, told me this would be my future. Basically, the right person at the right time, but I was 10 at most!»
Thinking about your career, is there anything you’d do change or do differently, if you could?
«My first job in London was at the Dorchester, one of the most significant experiences of my career. I was coming from CIGA (Catena Italiana Grandi Alberghi), and I was here on a year’s break to learn the language, but ended up staying for good. The Dorchester represented a major learning opportunity, under chefs such as Mosiman. In London I mainly learnt how to run a business, how F&B works, how to manage a restaurant. In Italy I had been taught the basis of classic cuisine, with french influences...here I also understood how to be an actual businessman. My family’s origins are working class, so I am grateful for my career and I wouldn’t change a thing. I approached life with humbleness, I didn’t let any success go to my head».
What’s the strangest thing that ever happened to you during a service?
«Ah, many things... but one in particular springs to mind. Again, during my time at the Dorchester, I found myself cooking at a gala dinner for the millenium, there were 50 chefs for 50 guests. Amongst these, Liza Minnelli and Michael Jackson who turned up hand in hand from the mezzanine’s staircase. We had prepared an extraordinary menu, and Michael Jackson didn’t eat a thing! Maybe he didn’t like the dishes, but truly a bizarre and memorable event for me».
What is the one kitchen tool that is your “spirit animal”?
«Definitely my knives! They have to be treated with respect, kept well and maintained. A knife is for life, you don’t lend it to anyone... our knives are the most important thing for us chefs, they are part of who we are. I have some that are more expensive than a Rolex, even just to sharpen them you need skills and the due care».
What is the food trend you hate, but can’t avoid?
«Lately, in all these so called Italian restaurants here in the UK there’s a massive over use of grated cheese on dishes, I find it extremely irritating I don’t shower my home cooked meals in cheese, I just use the right amount… Cheese overpowers flavours, yet here seems like a trend... you just add couple of leaves of rocket and a huge shaving of cheese and there you go, it’s an Italian restaurant. We don’t do that in Italy! Besides, enough with a microplane, if possible let’s use a traditional cheese grater which is much better for texture».
What is the one ingredient you’d never want to use again?
«Burrata! It’s omnipresent these days. I use it as filling for ravioli, with ricotta but I don’t itemise it on the menu. It’s not a criticism to anyone, it’s just that here you seem to find it everywhere you go, from pizza to fish».
If you had to list the ingredients of a dish mirroring your professional development, what would these be?
«So, definitely extra virgin olive oil, then ‘nduja, licorice, Tropea red onion, re-milled durum and rosamarina, a version of garum made with fermented fish and paprika. Basically, Calabria, my homeland. And, actually, I have included rosamarina in my menu here, with a recipe from the Crucoli area».
What is the snack or dish that will never appear on your menus but you are never too far away from?
«When we have a proper Sunday chicken roast at home, then in the evening, when I can’t be bothered to cook too much, I prepare a “kebab” for the family: I make a quick pitta bread using my own recipe, in a pan, then fill it with the left over chicken meat, mozzarella, tomatoes, oregano, salt pepper and stick in the oven to grill, and then we eat all together watching telly. It’s also a great way to make the most of free range, quality chicken. I use up the bones to make broth, too. But I confess my guilty pleasure is store bought ice cream, which I can eat half of in one go, straight from the tub».
What does Malta, where you have run Mazzei at Corinthia Palace for a couple of years already, and London, where you’re about to open Mezzogiorno?
«Malta is where it all begun. I am so glad I started working there with the Pisani family, they are the founders and owners of the Corinthia group. When I test new dishes, I have the pleasure of dealing with a gentleman called Alfred Pisani, he’s over 80 years and he’s an incredible joy to work with, he truly knows the hospitality industry inside out. I am privileged to do this job for them, and given the good work we did on the island, they gave me the opportunity to open in London. Italian cuisine with local produce, maltese in Malta and British here. The group loved the idea so they entrusted me with the project. The link between the two places is the family, as my own cooking stems from my mother’s kitchen and they are just as close a family as we are. There’s this correlation – allow me the term – and it’s pretty strong».
What’s unique about Mezzogiorno?
«The concept is mine, it’s the same name as my cookbook after all. It's an experience, our “mezzogiorno”, the southern regions. It’s a relaxed menu, you walk past me cooking when you arrive and when you leave (hopefully full and happy!). Bringing this brightness, this light to London, where already in autumn is dark at 3pm, goes beyond food. It's us, our traditions, our gestures, our “organised chaos”, that’s how we Italians are!»
Francesco Mazzei is chef patron and Francesco Chiarelli is head chef. Bookings for Mezzogiorno are already open, and opening is planned for end of November. For more information corinthia.com/en-gb/london/restaurants-bars.
