01-12-2014
Lacquered sweetbreads with Birra Moretti Grand Cru, aioli, oil with tarragon, barley pastry, celery and celeriac: one of the recipes that allowed Daniele Pennati, chef from Valtellina, to get to the finals of the Pemio Moretti Grand Cru, two years after participating for the first time
Today we present a new recipe from one of the finalist chefs in the Premio Birra Moretti Grand Cru 2014. In particular, this is the savoury recipe by Daniele Pennati of restaurant Hotel Roseg in Chiesa Valmalenco (Sondrio). My mini-menu opens with the protein ingredient I love the most, that is to say sweetbreads. In this dish I tried to valorise it with different contrasts and with the different textures of the ingredients that go together: hot-warm, soft-crispy, fresh-fat, bitter-sweet. I decided to pair this with Birra Moretti Grand Cru because of its elegant sapidity.
INGREDIENTS 200 g sweetbreads 1 dl Birra Moretti Grand Cru
For the tarragon oil 100 g tarragon 50 g parsley 300 g grape seed oil
For the aioli 1 head of garlic milk to taste 100 g egg white grape seed oil to taste salt to taste apple vinegar to taste
For the barley pastry 200 g pearled barley water to taste peanut oil to taste
For the celeriac 100 g celeriac water vinegar to taste 50 g extra virgin olive oil salt to taste
Green celery to taste Alliaria Petiolata to taste
Matching beer, Birra Moretti Grand Cru
METHOD For the barley wafer Soak the pearled barley for 12 hours in lots of cold water. Drain and cook it in a pot with unsalted water until it is completely cooked. Blend the barley with the cooking water until you obtain a homogenous, smooth and soft purée. Spread the purée between two sheets of baking paper and leave it to dry at room temperature until you obtain a pastry. Then fry it in lots of peanut oil. Add salt and keep the fried wafer in a hermetically closed container. For the tarragon oil Blanch the tarragon leaves in salted water for 3 minutes. Drain and cool it down immediately in cold water. Remove the exceeding water by squeezing them. Then weigh out the tarragon leaves with the parsley, adding twice as much grape seed oil in a homogenising processor. Blend all the ingredients together. Pour into a Chinois with a cloth and leave the mixture to drain in the fridge overnight. Then put all the oil obtained in a baby bottle and place it again in the fridge, in the dark. For the aioli Peel the garlic, cook it with the milk in a saucepan and bring it to the boil then turn off the flame, strain and leave to cool. Repeat the procedure three times. Then blend the garlic with a drop of cold milk until you obtain a purée and then strain this in a Chinois. Cook the egg white in a vacuum pack in a Bain-Marie at 68°C for 35 minutes. Cool down. Process the cooked egg white and the grape seed oil as with a traditional mayonnaise. Add salt, apple vinegar and the garlic purée. For the celeriac Clean it, cut it into 3 mm slices with the help of a mandolin knife. Put this celeriac julienne in a vacuum pack with the apple vinegar, the extra virgin olive oil, the salt and cook in a Bain-Marie at 85°C for 30 minutes. Cool down. Leave to rest overnight in the fridge. For the green celery Peel the celery stalk and cut it into a 4 cm long julienne. Leave in water and ice. Keep into the fridge for at least a couple of water. For the sweetbread Put the sweetbread into a vacuum pack and cook in a Bain-Marie at 62°C for one hour. Cool down in cold water. Open the pack and dry the sweetbreads from their cooking liquids. In a non-stick pan, brown the sweetbreads on a low flame only on one side with a drop of peanut oil. Once it is browned, remove the exceeding fat from the pan and deglaze it with Birra Moretti Grand Cru.
For the finishing Place the aioli in the centre of a plate. Place the glazed sweetbreads on top. Add a few drops of tarragon oil. Place the celery and celeriac on the sweetbreads. Finish with the pearled barley wafer and the alliaria petiolata. Serve immediately.
The recipes and the best moments of the second edition of Premio Birra Moretti Grand Cru
by
classe 1980, chef del ristorante Hotel Roseg a Chiesa Valmalenco, Sondrio