20-08-2013

In Trento with Alfio Ghezzi (part II)

The journey discovering Trento continues, between restaurants, wine bars and osterie

A panoramic view of Trento: the city, as illustrated by Alfio Ghezzi, is rich of remarkable establishments, such as chef Alfredo Chiocchetti’s restaurant, called Scrigno del Duomo, or the Enoteca Provinciale inside Palazzo Roccabruna

see part one

Outside Scrigno del Duomo but keeping to Piazza del Duomo in Trento, I would have proposed Goethe to finish the meal with an excellent coffee, enjoyed while sitting by the tables of Caffé Italia, under the colonnade (piazza del Duomo 7, +39.0461.985265). Before leaving this part of town, at the end of one of the alleys that start from the North-West corner of the square, I would have let him taste some raw fish at Ai Vicoli, just to remind him that Chioggia and the Adriatic sea are not so far away. This is a refined restaurant, with a unique setting, minimalistic and sound at the same time, in which the food is based on great raw materials, scarcely processed and served as they are.

Caffè Italia in Piazza del Duomo

At this point, I imagine that having left the centre and walking towards the Southern part of the city, looking towards Ravina and Romagnano he would have used these words: «For a good mile the road goes between walls that overlook the vines; when the walls are not tall enough, they try to raise them with stones, or bushes or something else, to stop those walking by from picking the grapes. Many owners spray some lime on the vines on the border, so their fruits are not edible, though this will not harm the wine, as the lime will be eliminated during the fermentation», thus introducing one of the most important activities in Trentino: wine production.

At this point I would have brought him to Palazzo Roccabruna, the headquarters of the Enoteca Provinciale of Trentino, where it is possible to discover the flavours and the aromas of the wines of Trentino and of the “metodo classico” Trento Doc sparkling wine. Or else, changing style, I would have brought him to a wine shop that is truly unique, namely Osteria della Mal'Ombra (Corso 3 Novembre 43, +39.0461.390696), where a host who – he says – is a little surly, in fact I find him funny, proposes wines produced by small producers and rare beers.

The last taste I would have recommended to the great writer, having just passed Brennero and the linguistic border of Salorno, in order to get more familiar with the «land where lemons flourish», would be that of Albert’s extraordinary pizza. This young man runs his pizzeria, helped only by his mother, and welcomes his guests with a showy red-white-and-green toque, reminding everyone that pizza is a true emblem of Italy, which is something quite important, I would add, and is fantastic with Trento Doc!

2. the end