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Since March 2020, David Tamburini is the chef at restaurant Level 36, on the 36th floor of hotel Ana Crowne Plaza in Kobe, on the Bay of Osaka
My family and I arrived in Japan in February 2020, only weeks before the first cases of Covid-19. Perhaps you will remember that here it all began with a series of infections on a cruise ship moored in Yokohama. I took the role of chef of restaurant Level 36, on the 36th floor of hotel Ana Crowne Plaza in Kobe. I started in March 2020; in April, however, when the first state of emergency was declared, we were forced to close. The owners decided to open only a few weeks ago [the Italian version of this piece was published early in May 2021], a choice that was taken because of the uncertain forecasts and government incentives. Despite the pandemic, everyday life is not much different from usual: shops and businesses never closed, except for some limitation in terms of opening hours for bars and restaurants, closing at 8 p.m. Japanese law doesn't impose for businesses to close: it just gives recommendations and advice. Over the past few weeks, infections have increased strongly. Despite the relatively low numbers compared to the West (3-4 thousand infections per day), as I write the government is about to pass the third state of emergency, which this time has commercial businesses close until the 11th of May.
David Tamburini, 47
Level 36 by day...
...and by night
Grilled tuna throat on water of red onions, capers and oregano from Sicily
Garganelli asparagus, jowl bacon and pecorino
Sawara (mackerel), garum, bella di Cerignola and raw cauliflower with lemon
I run a brigade of 5 people, which given the uncertain times is alright. A small team is usually closely knit, and instruction won't get lost on the way. I'm used to it and I like it. I don't know if it's the same for my team :).
LOST IN TRANSLATION. Language is a huge obstacle in Japan. Very few people speak English and my Japanese is enough to get by in the kitchen. “Rituals” are completely different from what I've experienced so far: sometimes I even find it hard to get if they want to sell me a product or prefer to keep it for themselves. I'm still “young” in Japan, I have plenty to learn. For now, I try to stop my Mediterranean instinct and make an effort to observe. I need to create a special feeling with my workplace. I think I have found it here because I like it, I like it very much. We'll see if time will confirm this feeling or not.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Born in Vinci, near Florence, in 1973, he was chef at La Gazza Ladra in Modica, Giando in Hong Kong, Sukhotai in Bangkok. Since March 2020 he's chef at restaurant Level 36, in the 36th floor of hotel Ana Crowne Plaza in Kobe, Japan
Men who, for a moment, leave pots and pans to tell us their experience and point of view