In 2014 Martino Ruggieri, from Martina Franca (Taranto), born in 1986, became part of the staff at the Pavillon Ledoyen in Paris (3 Michelin stars) after a long significant experience (among others, Villa Fiordaliso with Riccardo Camanini, La Pergola with Heinz Beck, l'Atelier with Joë Robuchon in Paris). He later became chef adjoint next to Yannick Alléno (in the photo, left to right, Ruggieri, Alléno and Gualtiero)
I first approached the world of cuisine when I was very young. I spent my days between school and a small pastry shop in Martina Franca, my hometown. I immediately fell in love with this profession learning the basics of traditional Italian pastry making from an old man.
I then continued with catering school in Castellana Grotte: I spent my spare time in a restaurant where I had the chance to meet a chef with international experience. Thanks to his stories and the experience of my brother, who’s also a cook, I learnt that the kitchen was to be my first home. Having completed my studies I started to gain experience away from home: in Sardinia, then Germany – an important step with chef Guglielmo De Bonis – then at hotel Cipriani in Venice and at Del Cambio in Torino.
After this period I arrived in a restaurant that was soon to become an important point of reference in my career: Villa Fiordaliso, beside Riccardo Camanini. It was a crucial time. I learnt to change my concept of cuisine which, in some ways, was still unknown to me. These were two intense years, during which I learnt many things and started to approach French cuisine thanks to Riccardo’s previous experience. It was he in fact who, at the end of this period, gave me the opportunity to go to France.
Brûlé grapefruit shell, hot sea urchin soup, crispy duck skin with foie gras en amertume and granita with iodine, a dish in the menu at Pavillon Ledoyen (photo Philippe Vaurès)
ALLENO. I’ve been following the work and style of Yannick Alléno for a long time. When Camanini urged me to acquire new experience in France, one of the places where I would have liked to work was certainly Meurice, a hotel restaurant where at the time Alléno was working. But they didn’t accept my application and I chose Robuchon. After my trip to Australia, I applied for Pavillon Ledoyen right away.
Martino back in the days in Sydney
We’re now working on opening the new restaurant: works should end by September 2017. It will be a sensational restaurant.
Men who, for a moment, leave pots and pans to tell us their experience and point of view
From Western concert flute to cakes