01-09-2016
Teo Musso and Simone Padoan look at Moreno Cedroni standing by the oven at I Tigli. The chef tells us about his relationship with pizza in this piece featured in the Identità di Pizza newsletter (to read it regularly, sign up here for free)
When asking Moreno Cedroni, the gran chef at La Madonnina del Pescatore, Il Clandestino and more, why he’s passionate about pizza, his first answer is first of all a historic excursus: «I’ve been presenting pizzas, in fact pizzette, for a long, long time in my restaurants. If I’m not mistaken, I began in 2002». It was the now classic and iconic Pizzetta with mackerel, burrata and cherry tomatoes, created for Squisito! in San Patrignano, when the chef from Le Marche participated with Davide Scabin e Vincenzo Cammerucci. «We presented the study and making of pizzas as a training method». It resulted in that delicious recipe which immediately became part of the menu at La Madonnina. And when Il Clandestino opened, it was moved there, where it still is, for the joy of food lovers.
Meanwhile, the relationship between Cedroni and one of the Italian dishes par excellence went on, «I remember the Pizzetta with four cheeses with smoked amberjack and lemon zest. Or – though it was just a game – the Bufalina di spada, a game because the fake dough was in fact a slice of swordfish, topped with buffalo milk mozzarella and cherry tomatoes». A trompe-l'œil pizza, in other words.
Moreno Cedroni by the oven at I Tigli
Luckily this is no longer the case: the world of pizza is experiencing these days such a growth in terms of quality that chefs pay more attention now, «we can go wild and season pizza with all the delicious products that are part of our heritage. How many recipes are possible? Infinite, I mean it».
Pizza with barley malt dough, belly tuna with beer vinaigrette topping: it was presented by Cedroni-Padoan-Musso
Like the one pulled out of the oven the other day at I Tigli in San Bonifacio, with the participation, on top of Cedroni, of patron Simone Padoan and Teo Musso, with his Baladin beers. Three important people who collaborated to create a unique tasting event: dough with barley malt, topping with tuna belly and beer vinaigrette, «that’s as gourmet as it gets with pizza!». With a trivia fact: «I cooked the tuna belly as with pizza, turning it with the oven shovel. Simone cooked the dough as if it were fish, on the barbecue».
250 g 00 flour 125 g water 2.5 g salt 5 g di brewer’s yeast 500 g mackerel 100 g salt 20 g sugar 1 g white pepper 100 g extra virgin olive oil 5 g balsamic vinegar 1 burrata weighing around 250 g 30 g cream Method Knead 250 g of 00 flour with 125 g of water, 2.5 g of salt and 5 g of brewer’s yeast. After the first rising, which will last around half an hour, roll out the dough so it is only a few millimetres thick, then cut it with a 10 cm pastry cutter. Leave it to rise for 20 more minutes, punch it with a fork and bake at 180°C for 8 minutes: it’s important that the edge starts to turn golden. Clean 500 g of mackerel into filets, carefully removing the bones. Mix 100 g of salt with 20 g of sugar and 1 g of white pepper. Cover the filets with this mixture for 2 hours; wash the filets, remove the elastic film stuck to the skin of the mackerel and slice them. Put the filets in a marinade with 100 g of extra virgin olive oil and 5 g of balsamic vinegar for 15 minutes. Then drain and keep in the oil. Take a piece of burrata cheese weighing around 250 g, cut it into small pieces and add 30 g of cream to make it creamier. Place the mackerel slices, a tablespoon of burrata and the cherry tomatoes previously seasoned with extra virgin olive oil and a few drops of balsamic vinegar on the fragrant pizza.
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journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief