10-01-2018
Carlo Cracco appears on the door of his new restaurant in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan. It should open in mid-February (photo by Brambilla-Serrani)
Antonella De Santis, author at Gambero Rosso, asked some twenty experts what unforgettable events happened in 2017 before archiving it. We had to mention possibly, with a short comment. My answers gave me the input to write some more. First of all, here’s what Antonella wrote in her article under my name:
«Solaika Marrocco and Primo Restaurant in Lecce. Promoted chef at 22, not only has she given Primo Restaurant the right direction, she’s also won the Birra Moretti Gran Cru award. Personality and humbleness.
Turcinieddhi glazed in beer with onion and orange marmalade, tempura of critmi and hop infusion. Thanks to this dish, Solaika Marrocco won the 2017 Birra Moretti Grand Cru award
«Daniel Humm and the new Eleven Madison Park. Renovating when you’re the N.1 restaurant is something few will do. Changing the music in the kitchen is even harder. For bright minds».
To these three, I add a dozen more memories. It’s not a shortlist, it’s a trip down memory lane that starts with the extraordinary investment made by Coop and Eataly in Bologna: FICO, Fabbrica Italiana COntadina. Open daily, from morning till midnight, it celebrates our country’s food greatness. It should make everyone proud. Instead, many waste their time and health by being envious.
Martino Ruggieri, on the 1st October in Alba when he won the Italian finals of the 2019 Bocuse d'or
Cascina Vittoria and the Ricciardella brothers. Marco, Alessandro, Giovanni and Simone are a real poker of talents in Rognano, between Milan and Pavia. Two in the dining room, two in the kitchen and in front of the oven and grill. Their ideas, dishes and wines are contemporary and very original. Something you’d expect from people who are truly talented – no copying and no frills here.
The Week of Italian Cuisine in the World. The first in 2016, the second in November last year. And now there’s 2018, the Year of Italian Food. The ministries of Culture and Agricultural Resources have joined forces so as to celebrate it in the best possible way. There’s lots to be done. We have twelve months. Ideas and clear content are urgent.
Marta, Enrica and Dominga Cotarella
Bread is gold. This is the title of the book by Massimo Bottura & Friends celebrating the Refettorio opened in Milan during Expo 2015. It’s a sort of new Artusi. Proceedings will support the Food for Soul foundation. Real facts in a world where words, envy and jealousy are always too many.
Pizza and Unesco acknowledging the art of the Neapolitan pizzaiuolo. A nice goal reached in Naples. Let’s hope the noisy folklore that followed the announcement will fade in the future. Pizza is now a real heritage of humanity. You can find bad pizza everywhere. As for the good one, it is never enough and it is not always in the Neapolitan style. Many have learnt to make a good one.
Franco Pepe in front of the oven at Authentica in Caiazzo in the province of Caserta
Cracco in Galleria. In six weeks’ time we’ll be able to dine at Carlo Cracco’s new restaurant (and much more). The last service in Via Victor Hugo was on Saturday 23rd December. Closed a chapter, there’s a new one ready to be written.
Renato Bosco, Francesco and Chicco Cerea at Cantalupa in Brusaporto (Bergamo)
Hurray for Antonio Albanese. After spoofing sommeliers, it’s now the turn of chefs. From videos with twirling glasses to the pages of Lenticchie alla julienne, the cookbook by chef Alain Tonné. From sea gull en croute to square root purée and finally the Dietician corner.
A final small note: many say 2018 will be the year they’ll serve insects in restaurants. I’ll be happy to leave them to enthusiasts. My real revolution will be to eat well without grasshoppers, scorpions and crickets. I’ll leave them to those who appreciate them and perhaps have no other way to be noticed by the crowds. Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
A mouth watering page, published every Sunday in Il Giornale from November 1999 to the autumn of 2010. Stories and personalities that continue to live in this website
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born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose. blog www.paolomarchi.it instagram instagram.com/oloapmarchi