23-01-2018
David Tamburini, born in Tuscany in 1973. After his recent Sicilian experience at Casa Grugno (Taormina) and La Gazza Ladra (Modica), one and a half year ago he took over gourmet restaurant La Scala at the Sukhotai, a 5 star luxury hotel in Bangkok, Thailand
We had lost trace of Tuscan David Tamburini, the chef with a recent Sicilian past, first at Casa Grugno in Taormina and then at La Gazza Ladra in Palazzo Failla in Modica, where Accursio Craparo is now. We then received a note telling us that after a short stay serving Italian cuisine at trattoria Giando in Hong Kong, one year and a half ago he took over at La Scala, the ambitious gourmet restaurant on the ground floor of the sparkling Sukhotai hotel in the centre of Bangkok, Thailand. We meet him under a hot sun, in the gigantic halls of the 5 star luxury hotel with Hong Kong ownership. Completely redesigned one and a half year ago, thanks to large investments, its décor recreates the old colonial atmosphere. This place is far from the city chaos, but you don’t have to pay an arm and a leg to stay here – it’s the equivalent of around 150 euros. Davide arrives with a calm walk, and introduces us to French pastry-chef Laurent Ganguillet, a sly old fox who’s charming guests with hot chocolate à la minute, all sorts of ganache and nicely offered chocolates. «It’s nice staying here», Tamburini starts to say, «I couldn’t say the same of Hong Kong because they asked me to make a stereotyped cuisine, which is not in my character».
The restaurant veranda overlooking the swimming pool
Spaghetti with burnt aubergines, salted ricotta and date tomatoes
Tamburini with pastry chef Laurent Ganguillet
At the entrance, the hall of fame with the chefs who cooked at restaurant La Scala
The staff is almost entirely from Thailand: «They’re good at cooking, they follow my advice and are motivated despite the long hours». The dining room service is a little more complicated: «Hospitality is not an issue: they’re very kind, like all Asians. As Italians, we have lots to learn from them. But they still must grasp those little nuances that make a perfect service. We’d like to eliminate all these criticalities by finding an Italian maître». Candidates better apply.
Pork, Tuscan style, puffed rind stuffed with “Chianti tuna”, hot cannellini beans, roasted lemon, fresh pepper
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt