09-11-2017
A close-up of Jiro Ono, 92, sushiman since the age of 8, patron at Sukiyabashi Jiro, in Ginza, three Michelin stars. To his right, his son Yoshihiro, 54. Yoshi has a brother, Takashi, who runs Sushi Jiro in Roppongi, two Michelin stars (photo by Zanatta)
See part one Readers should be already familiar with the prologue: on a warm spring-like day, we found a place with Massimo Bottura at Sukyiabashi Jiro, the world’s most famous sushi counter. From 5.16 pm to 5.38 pm, 92-year-old Jiro Ono shapes and places on the table 20 pieces of rice and fish – included in the tasting menu, a compulsory choice for all guests – plus 3 more extra-menu pieces and 2 more second helpings of our choice. This is the sequence in the 20-piece tasting menu: prelude with sole (hirame); squid (sumi-ika) and snapper (shima-aji). A triptych of tuna, served according to fatness: delicate (akami), semi-fat (chu-toro) and very fat ventresca, from the part of the belly closer to the gills (oo-toro). Then sardine (kohada); abalone (awabi); surel (aji); boiled scampi (kurumaebi); another sardine, this time marinated (iwashi); red clam (akagai); bonito tuna (katsuo); Japanese clam (hamaguri), the same mackerel from step number nine, this time marinated (aji-su); sea urchin (uni); mini scallop (kobashira); salmon roe (ikura); conger, that is to say sea eel (anago) and fried egg (tamago). A 25-piece knock out, eaten in the space of 22 minutes. Uppercuts and jabs dressed up with furious acidity which, in the first 3 pieces, assaulted a totally defenceless palate. «This happens because, when you dine at Jiro’s», Bottura successfully pointed out 72 hours later, «you always need three mouthfuls: the first is to connect the mental palate, the second is to familiarise with the flavour, the third is to start appreciating». A law the chef from Modena learnt by decanting Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale: «It’s only with the third tasting that the palate starts to notice tertiary flavours». Indeed, a calm chaos settled after the fourth piece, its way paved by the disturbing initial acidity.
Gizzard shad (kohada)
Boiled prawn (kurumaebi)
Bonito (katsuo)
Clam shell (hamaguri)
Another big difference that stands out compared to second class sushi is having a tasting menu. «You need to taste and appreciate each piece in turn», continues Jiro, «They are not designed to feed or fill your stomach». Many restaurateurs serve one or two starters and then sushi: «It’s a huge mistake: this way, the palate won’t understand much». It’s the wisdom resulting from 84 years of career, the same wisdom that 17 years ago led him to abandon the à la carte formula in favour of a sole 20-piece tasting menu. The sequence is in order of fatness, leaving the heavyweights for the end. «It’s the most influential revolution ever made in sushi making», says critic and friend Matsuhiro Yamamoto, «Today almost everyone does it in Tokyo». Who knows how long it will be till it becomes popular here too.
Sea urchin (uni). Super creamy, and sweet. It melts in your mouth. We asked for a second helping
Jiro’s hand, he’s left-handed
Gabriele Zanatta’s opinion: on establishments, chefs and trends in Italy and the world
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt