03-09-2017
Antonello Magistà, first from the left, his mum Maria Cicorella in the middle and most of the staff (left to right Sara Pertosa, Livio Improta, Leonardo Caterino, Daniele Gamarro and Mario Magistà): these are the people at Pashà in Conversano. Photo Tanio Liotta
To live like a Lord, or, in Italian, like a pascià, (or in Turkish pashà, in Persian pādishā’h, “king”, mixed with the Turkish basqàq, “governor”). It doesn’t matter that the name of this gourmet destination in Conversano has a completely different reason (pashà was the nickname Antonello Magistà was given as a kid, it appears). For sure, having a great time, and thus receiving excellent hospitality, is a pillar of this establishment, a pride for Apulia. For more than one reason.
Third, there’s pashà Antonello, who looks like he was born to run a high quality restaurant: he creates the right empathy, he’s there when you need him, and disappears at the right moment. He’s the perfect dominus of the dining room, affable, caring. He’s a sort of living compendium of how you can make use of the above mentioned fabulous location to make sure that the guest feels satisfied from the start, regardless of the rest which I’d usually consider the most important part, or almost. Well done.
Scampi from Polignano, soup of date tomatoes and oregano. Photos by Tanio Liotta
Focaccia with burnt wheat, mortadella, peated whisky and pistachio
There’s also a stronger tension, an effort to improve. In the words of our Sonia Gioia, who perfectly made the point as usual: “The dishes arrive with lightness on a more contemporary horizon, between acidity and bitterness, notes which Apulian vegetables bestow in infinite versions”. Very true, I agree.
This even though Apulia is in fact enough by itself, when it comes to culinary opulence: so we’d never remove from the tasting menus, even the most innovative ones, fundamental, archetypical delicacies such as Barbecued lamb torcinelli, leek au gratin, robiola, Vermouth Dry. We even told so with frankness to the brilliant pascià. These are the perfect representation of what-we-would-always-want-to-find-but-rarely-do. Of course this is the thought of a gourmet tourist away from home, but this is still an important part of the clients.
Barbecued lamb torcinelli, leek au gratin, robiola, Vermouth Dry
Rabbit tuna with seasonal fruit and vegetables
Fish, crustaceans, rice, lemon and shallot
"Orecchione"
In other words: delicious Italy. Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief