27-05-2020
Norbert Niederkofler, born in 1961, chef at restaurant St. Hubertus inside Hotel Rosa Alpina in San Cassiano (Bolzano), 3 Michelin stars (portrait by Alex Moling)
«We must work together. We don’t have a leadership that can support us». These are the words of Norbert Niederkofler, patron at St. Hubertus at Hotel Rosa Alpina in San Cassiano, Alta Val Badia, 3 Michelin stars. Today, more than ever, he’s convinced that Cook the Mountain, his cooking philosophy, is the right road to follow to face the changes that await us. We joined him virtually in South Tyrol among his beloved mountains. How are you facing the emergency? This is for me a time for thinking, and a time of paradoxes. I realise I’m spending precious time with my family, time I didn’t have before. I see nature recovering in an incredible way, while the economy is going down the pan. And I realise that we’ve built a fragile way of living our daily lives. In the end we’ve seen how nature, if that’s what it wants, can bring the whole world to its knees in just a few weeks, without wasting a bullet. What worries you the most? I can’t see a real leader. Someone who can make decisions. In the end we must do by ourselves. And it’s a pity that we don’t realise that it is only through respect, and most of all by working together, that we can put this moment behind us. Starting from South Tyrol, as well as Italy, Europe, the world. I don’t see people showing they’re capable of putting their personal interest aside, but most of all I see we have no vision for the future of our children. What actions could be crucial to support restaurants in these months? The only possibility is to work together, and have some clear rules, so people know what they can do. ‘Is it worth it? Can I apply these rules? How should I adapt my restaurant for the future? It makes no sense to postpone payments, because in the end we will have to pay. If we don’t find other solutions, it will be hard to start again. Ferran Adrià says the world restaurant industry will need a new paradigm. What’s your opinion? I’m convinced that what we’re doing with Cook the Mountain is the right solution: we must give value to the territory through its products and producers, a huge richness for our regions. I think that those who share our thoughts should have some support both in terms of taxes and in terms of aid from the government. We must help territories start again at every level – like with South Tyrol. But with simple and clear rules, that can be respected without any easy way out.
Orzotto with mountain herbs (Alex Moling)
Photo by Daniel Töchterle
Mountain salad (photo Alex Moling)
Nature doesn’t stop. And since you’re used to using fresh local products and promoting waste reduction, how do you think one can support the supply chain and small producers? We’re designing the work with our farmers: what to plant, sow and breed, to support the supply chain during the emergency. And we’ll have to find a way to use the products without wasting anything. This is why we’re always in close contact with them. It’s a reciprocal advantage. Will such a difficult experience help humanity to change approach to nature, the environment and life? I hope so. Nature has shown us what it’s capable of in a very short span. We’ve already been working for a year on a book that will be out in October, titled “Cook the Mountain – The nature around you”. It will be entirely made in South Tyrol and in Italy, printed on apple paper (100% recycled paper from apple wastes), while the cover is made with apple leather (also recycled from apples). In around 400 pages we will present Cook the Mountain, the relationship with the producers, the artisans of this region and the breeders. Real everyday stories of beauty and effort. But to go back to the question, I don’t think we will forget this difficult period so rich of paradoxes. We are constantly connected to the world, but we’re still isolated in our homes. For children this is a difficult time, a situation that is hard to understand: staying at home, giving up on habits and behaviours we have taught them and which for our culture have always been important, like a good handshake, an affectionate kiss, spending time together.
Translated by Slawka G. Scarso
Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose
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Professional journalist, consultant at Identità Golose, deputy editor at The CUBE Magazine and contributor at AD Architectural Digest italia and Panorama. Author of Guides and books edited by WhiteStar and Marco Polo