64 Italian emotions for 2014

Journalists and food bloggers recommend their favourite dish in 2013. Perfect tips for the New Year

Offal, cream, lemon and salt by Niko Romito of re

Offal, cream, lemon and salt by Niko Romito of restaurant Reale Casadonna in Casteldisangro (L'Aquila), a the most renowned Italian chef in 2013, the year he had 3 Michelin stars. This is one of the 64 "emotions" quoted by the 64 food experts we contacted for our survey (photo Passione Gourmet)

As timely as a dish of lentils, here’s the traditional New Year’s poll by Identità Golose. While last year we asked 44 food experts for their opinion on the chefs to keep an eye on in 2013 (a guide that is still worth reading), this year we’ve asked 64 journalists and bloggers to tell us the most intense tasty emotion they have experienced in Italy during the past year. They could answer with a tasting menu or only a (sweet or savoury) dish. Note these emotions down to start 2014 in great style.

The intense Chestnut soup with new oil and vin santo by Marco Stabile at Ora d'Aria in Florence, my forests enclosed in a dish
(Luisa Acciarri, Identità Golose)

Tomato ice cream with liquorish and asparagus: a savoury dessert by Cristiano Tomei at Imbuto in Lucca
(Chiara Aiazzi, Identità Golose)

Pistachio sponge cake with strawberry and basil gazpacho by Michelangelo Citino at Michelangelo in Milano Linate
(Fiorenza Auriemma, Identità Golose)

The chargrilled scamorzina by Lanfranco Centofanti at Angolo di Abruzzo in Carsoli (L'Aquila). So simple, so difficult to describe
(Giulio Bagnale, The Spaghetti Junction)

The craveable entrée of Al Grottino in Riano (Roma): fried polenta, fat potato chips and grilled pepperoni
(Camilla Baresani, Sette)

An extraordinary and surprising White chocolate soup with powdered peas, pineapple, sea urchin and nutmeg by Luigi Taglienti at Trussardi alla Scala in Milan
(Clara Barra, Gambero Rosso)

Soft polenta with forest scents, porcini, Casolet fondue and sorrel by Stefano Ghetta of L'Chimpl in Tamion, Vigo di Fassa (Trento), the luxury of simplicity
(Roberto Bentivegna, Passione Gourmet)

A surprising Winter sea, a new dish by Aurora Mazzucchelli of Marconi in Sasso Marconi (Bologna)
(Piero Benvenuti, L'Espresso)

Davide Palluda’s finanziera at Enoteca in Canale (Cuneo): pure tradition from Piedmont
(Davide Bertellini, Identità Golose)

Creative dishes, a play of raw ingredients and the fabulous Gerardo di Nola pasta by young Giulio Coppola at La Galleria di Gragnano (Naples). It touched my palate and my heart
(Luciana Bianchi, The World's 50 Best Restaurants Blog)

Entrails, cream, lemon and salt by Niko Romito at Reale Casadonna in Casteldisangro (L'Aquila), contrasts and harmonies in an exemplary tasting menu
(Gianluca Biscalchin, Touring)

Pigeon cooked in the hay at Nazionale in Vernante: a rosy cooking with the scents of mountain hay and flowers
(Maresa Bisozzi, Identità Golose)

The Involtini of trattoria Da Cesare al Casaletto in Rome, the real news in the city of the past few years
(Marco Bolasco, Giunti)

The balance of the Risotto with ash, arctic char and its eggs prepared by Eugenio Boer at Cous Cous and Friends event
(Giorgia Cannarella, Gazza Golosa)

Acorns: a thin wafer shell filled with hazelnut cream. At Gay Odin, an ancient chocolate shop in Napoli.
(Lydia Capasso, Gastronomia Mediterranea)

Maltagliati with «white» Chianina meat sauce by Massimo Rossi at Belvedere in Monte San Savino (Arezzo)
(Valeria Carbone, Identità Golose)

Aperitif and a platter of cheese, cured meat and other nibbles on the terrace of Rifugio Lago D'Avoli, Roccaraso (L'Aquila), +39.389.8304430
(Federica Carr, Identità Golose)

A sensational Sheep stock with aromatic herbs, porcini, prawns with lemongrass and small ravioli with casu axedu cheese by Roberto Petza, S’Apposentu in Siddi (Vs)
(Giuseppe Carrus, Gambero Rosso)

Milanese style sushi at Wicky Pryan’s Wicky's. Eight nighiri with a surprising flavour to be enjoyed without soy sauce and using a risotto made with saffron from Abruzzo
(Lisa Casali, Ecocucina)

Perfectly cooked and marinated hare, with fusilli cooked in a concentrated hare stock. A superb dish by Enrico Mazzaroni at Il Tiglio in Montemonaco (Ascoli Piceno)
(Alberto Cauzzi, Passione Gourmet)

Meatballs made with cabannina veal (and the best pesto in Genoa, and thus in the world) at Il Genovese in Genoa
(Pietro Cheli, Amica)

Il Codfish mousse of Portinari brothers of La Peca in Lonigo (Vicenza, photo vinoecibo.it)

Il Codfish mousse of Portinari brothers of La Peca in Lonigo (Vicenza, photo vinoecibo.it)

 The tradition of Nicola Portinari of La Peca in Lonigo (Vicenza), including an incredible Codfish mousse with pepper centrifuge, cauliflower and anchovies and corn wafer
(Giuseppe Cordioli, Identità Golose)

Snails with lentils, carob, garlic and whisky by Luciano Monosilio of Pipero al Rex in Rome: heavenly
(Giulia Corradetti, Identità Golose)

Tortellini in capon stock at Osteria Bottega in Bologna, via Santa Caterina 51. The best in the world
(Federico De Cesare Viola, Il Sole 24 Ore)

The faked Risotto with asparagus and shrimps of Storie d'Amore restaurant in Borgoricco (Padua), a very good idea perfectly executed
(Claudio Demin, Il Gazzettino)

Bronte pistachio semifreddo with pistachio brittle by chef Luciano Zazzeri of La Pineta in Marina di Bibbona (Livorno). Unforgettable
(Delia Demma, Identità Golose)

Sardines, veal sausage and smoked cicerchie at Rimessa in Mariano Comense (Como), chef Stefano Ierardi.
(Raffaele Foglia, La Provincia di Como)

The fantastic tasting menu based on offal of Cece e Simo in Bergamo
(Elena Gamba, Identità Golose)

Chocolate and gianduia ganache spheres, breaded and fried, over candied lampascioni with artichoke liquor by Angelo Sabatelli in Monopoli (Bari). A brilliant shock of pleasure
(Sonia Gioia, Repubblica blog)

"Fabbrica, ore 12: il baracchino", a tasty iconographic-gastronomic interpretation of a workman’s lunch by Francesca Sgandurra of Contesto Alimentare, Turin
(Licia Granello, Repubblica)

A voluptuous and acid trip with Spaghetto with scampi infusion and apricot by Cristiano Tomei of restaurant L’Imbuto in Lucca
(Andrea Grignaffini, Spirito Di Vino)

Federico Delmonte’s tasting menu before closing Vicolo del Curato in Fano (Ancona). Don’t worry, the chef is about to open in Rome.
(Martino Lapini, Identità Golose)

Comforting yet insolent, you could never have enough of them: tortelli “Cacio e Pepe” by Gian Luca Gorini at Le Giare in Montiano (Forlì-Cesena)
(Martina Liverani, Dispensa Magazine)

A delicious dish of salami with fried cake and home-made vegetable giardiniera at Antica Trattoria Bellaria in Rivergaro (Piacenza)
(Lisa Marchesi, Identità Golose)

Emanuela Tommolini and the food at Osteria Esprì in Colonnella (Teramo): a rare case, I’d eat his Raw on canvas every day
(Paolo Marchi, Identità Golose)

Pollo ficatum (chicken fed with figs) with cannellini beans cream, seaweeds, lime and garusoli (sea snails) by Antonio Guida at Pellicano in Porto Ercole (Grosseto). The pleasure of (white) meat
(Valentina Marino, Gambero Rosso)

The headway of emotion at Le giare in Montiano (Forlì-Cesena), where the talent of Gianluca Gorini in a few month’s time has put to sea
(Alessandra Meldolesi, Touring)

Blueberries, the scent of mushrooms, the aroma of coffee. Are we in the woods? No we’re at Il luogo di Aimo e Nadia in Milan. This is Mario Peqini’s sweet vegetable
(Daniele Miccione, Gazza Golosa)

Risotto with tomato water, mussels, field herbs and chilli pepper crumble at Antica Osteria Magenes in Gaggiano (Milan), amazing
(Mariachiara Montera, Cucina Corriere)

Monkfish on a topinambur cream and toasted almonds at Lucia in Giulianova (Teramo)
(Cristina Mosca, C come magazine)

Fun and emotions in front of the palettes of Pasta e Patate e Napul'è by Nino di Costanzo at Mosaico in Casamicciola (Ischia)
(Mariaclara Nitti, Identità Golose)

Tomato water with scents of lemon and a cloud of ricotta by Corrado Assenza at Caffè Sicilia in Noto (Siracusa): simplicity, richness, childhood
(Carlo Ottaviano)

At the Chinese trattoria Jubin in Milan: duck heads broken in halves, with brain and cheeks in view, something to suck and strip the flesh off. Strong stuff
(Raffaele Panizza, Panorama)

The Snails of Enrico Bartolini of Devero in Cavenago Brianza

The Snails of Enrico Bartolini of Devero in Cavenago Brianza

The superb Snails with green apple, liver paté and delicate garlic by Enrico Bartolini at Devero in Cavenago Brianza (Mb)
(Carlo Passera, Identità Golose)

Puntarelle and kaki tempura. The Orient in a mouthful, offered by Hiromi Arai at J's Hiro (Milan)
Emilia Patruno (Identità Golose)

Egg en croute with pan brioche and white truffle by the Vicina family at Eataly Torino. I will never thank them enough
(Roberto Perrone, Corriere della Sera)

The tasty and sublime fish soup at Trattoria da Santarino in Follonica (Grosseto)
(Bruno Petronilli, Passione Gourmet)

The great Minestra maritata at pizzeria Umberto in Napoli, a simple recipe that requires technical skills. Ancient and modern at the same time
(Luciano Pignataro, Il Mattino)

Aperitif in Gallipoli (Lecce) with sweet and savoury pasticciotti from Antonio Campeggio’s Il Pasticciottino
(Mariella Piscopo, Identità Golose)

Being a Francophile, Andrea De Bellis’ Millefoglie with inverted pastry at Pasticceria De Bellis in Rome, a small epiphany
(Sara Porro, Dissapore)

Piero Blengeri’s extra virgin olive oil at Borghetto d'Arroscia (Imperia), tel. +39.0183.382118
(Luca Ripellino, Identità Golose)

The unforgettable Sottobosco lucano (cream of potatoes, mushrooms, truffle, carrots, wild vegetables and a quail egg) at restaurant Frankrizzuti in Potenza
(Vincenzo Rizzi, Identità Golose)

The Eolian islands wonder of the Grilled prawns and aubergines of Martina Caruso, chef of Signum, Salina islands. She is only 23
(Roberta Schira, Corriere del Sera)

The 'Mbruglietielle (goat intestine wrapped in celery and then roasted in the oven with potatoes, onion and tomato) at Trattoria 'E Curti in Sant'Anastasia (Napoli)
(Antonio Scuteri, Repubblica)

The soul of the Dolomites in a Venison tartare with lovage: this is Malga Panna, a paradise overlooking paradise
(Pina Sozio, Gambero Rosso)

Goat cheese ice cream, idromiele meringue, pollen, flowers and honey aged in barrels by Mauro Uliassi in Senigallia (Ancona). I’m still moved
(Carlo Spinelli, Italia Squisita)

Rice with camomile, monk fish, wild herbs and pine cone by Cristiano Tomei at Imbuto in Lucca. Delicate and full of character. Sea, forests and countryside
(Luciana Squadrilli, Identità Golose)

“Uovo perfetto”, the truly perfect egg by Theo Penati at restaurant Pierino Penati in Viganò Brianza (Lecco)
(Errica Tamani, Identità Golose)

"Piatto classico" (meatball, pork cheek, boiled meat and cotechino) at Osteria della Villetta in Palazzolo sull'Oglio (Brescia). A sublime chapter in history
(Niccolò Vecchia, Radio Popolare)

The huge hamburger of Al Mercato in Milan (photo by Brambilla-Serrani taken by the book "Street food d'autore", Gribaudo publisher)

The huge hamburger of Al Mercato in Milan (photo by Brambilla-Serrani taken by the book "Street food d'autore", Gribaudo publisher)

Tartare hamburger at Al Mercato in Milan, The most Italian among the Americans, for true meat fans
(Stefano Vegliani, Mediaset)

Fried Adriatic calamaretti spillo (baby squids) at Da Carlo in Senigallia (Ancona). The sunny fragrance of the sea in a limited edition
(Cristina Viggè, Grandecucina)

Nuvola di Caprese presented by Pino Cuttaia of La Madia in Licata (Agrigento) at Le Strade della Mozzarella, "Dish of the year" according to Guida dell'Espresso
(Enzo Vizzari, L'Espresso)

Cannolo with cream by Claudio De Caro at restaurant Al Molo in Donnalucata (Ragusa). Don’t ask him to give you the recipe, though, he won’t
(Gabriele Zanatta, Identità Golose)


Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose

Identità Golose


Identità Golose

This article is curated by Identità Golose, the publication that organises the international fine dining congress, publishes website www.identitagolose.com and the online Guida Identità Golose, on top of curating many other events in Italy and abroad

Author's articles list