27-03-2013
The photo by Francesca Brambilla and Serena Serrani is one of the first to appear in the book titled "Sauternes. Viaggio alla scoperta di un vino dolce leggendario" (Sauternes. A journey of discovery of a legendary sweet wine) by Cinzia Benzi and Laura Di Cosimo, published by Gribaudo, 50 euro, with a preface by Alexandre de Lur Saluces. The book also includes recipes by 16 great chefs, from Massimo Bottura to René Redzepi
There’s no point in showing off jokes and rhetoric, in order to sum up the greatness of Sauternes. Copying here the preface of the book recently published by Gribaudo would be enough. It was written by Alexandre de Lur Saluces, helmsman at the unreachable Château d'Yquem: «It is the Vivaldi of wine, together with its paradox of a never-syrupy fruitiness; it is a naturally sweet wine counterbalanced by a freshness which is called, hardly poetically, acidity». Piedmontese Cinzia Benzi and Roman Laura Di Cosimo, two wine reporters who left on a journey among sixteen châteaux in Sauternes and Barsac, «each one», they explain in the introduction, «with a precise stylistic mark», devoted it time, enthusiasm and interest («thank you, my dear friends», replies de Lur Saluces). Their journey became a «diary of a wine that as time goes by doesn’t grow old, but richer».
The book cover
Once the preliminary part is finished – including a unique contribution by Andrea Grignaffini regarding the pairing of Sauternes with cigars – the central part of the book, blessed by Paolo Marchi, is all focused on the relationship between history, style and tastings of each of the 16 châteaux and on the recipe of a great chef who uses the wine as an ingredient, always illustrated by the talented hand of Gianluca Biscalchin. Thus Yquem has its side-epilogue with Massimo Bottura’s Foie gras brittle, Châteaux Climens is sublimed in Giovanni Santini’s Chocolate soufflé, Coutet finds its happy ending in René Redzepi’s toast with wild blueberries.
Cinzia Benzi, Laura Di Cosimo, Serena Serrani and Francesca Brambilla introducing the book at Identità Milano 2013
Finally, there’s the extraordinary report of the tasting of some memorable vintages, from the Clos Haut-Peyraguey 2007 to the Château d’Yquem 1967 and a signature itinerary closed with a useful compendium summing up the addresses and opening hours of the maisons. So one can happily enjoy the dessert wine legend.
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt
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