Vanessa Markey
Leek and bacon croissantsby Andrea Menichetti
In cantina Vigne Cappato: lunga vita al Vermentino
Fabrizio Fiorani, born in Rome in 1986, is the pastry-chef at restaurant Luca Fantin in the Bulgari Ginza Tower in Tokyo, Japan. He’s the author of a book titled "Tra l'onirico e il reale" [Between oneiric and real], Chiriotti Editore, 60 recipes, 74 euros if you buy it online
“Tra l’onirico e il reale” [Between oneiric and real]. Publisher Chiriotti chose a nice title for Fabrizio Fiorani’s book. Thirty-one, he’s been the pastry-chef at restaurant Luca Fantin in the Bulgari Ginza Tower in Tokyo since 2015. Fantin-Fiorani, a double F that is delineating a beautiful adventure for Italian cuisine abroad.
We already know a lot about the chef from Treviso (also thanks to the book he published little over a year ago), but we knew little of this Roman young man. He arrived in Japan for the opening of Heinz Beck's Sensi and before that he worked in important Italian restaurants (The Cesar alla Posta Vecchia, Pellicano at Argentario, Pinchiorri in Florence and La Pergola in Rome). The young man was inspired in his profession by Philippe Conticini and Pierre Hermè, two giants of the sweet universe that have set an example for him.
The cover of the book, a total of 450 pages
Aesthetics: Torta rossa
We had already noticed his ambition and imagination in November, last year, during a visit to Tokyo. Fiorani was finishing his batch of panettoni made in the Far East. His eyes were shining at least as much as the eyes of Takauku Otani, the sushiman and director at Otanino Sushi, one with Speedy Gonzales hands: we were all charmed by the small leavened pastries that the young man pulled out of the magical cylinder.
He sums up his reckless passion for the art of pastry making in a 7-chapter book with 60 recipes written in Italian and English. A rollercoaster of extremely precise recipes, detailed to the milligram, with memorable photos (Giancarlo Bononi and Luca Marcheselli designed the project). A journey that obviously begins with ingredients, desserts exploring milk, vanilla or passion fruit, his favourite ingredients, analysed in every texture, temperature or contrast.
Memory: Millefoglie
Tribute: Raspberry textures
And then we have memories from his roots (maritozzo with whipped cream) and from the French school (chocolate eclair), ideas that turn the current recipes upside down (apple pie al contrario, strawberries with cream, tiramisu glasses) and recipes that are a homage to the masters - Conticini, Beck and Hermè as well as Norihiko Terai and Dominique Crenn. Creative visions pressed into a must-have book.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt
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