11-12-2017
Enrico Bartolini in front of his new restaurant Cinque (it is the fifth in Italy) inside Fico Eataly World in Bologna. The chef announces that he’s soon to open two bistros in Milan too. Plus...
Our lunch at Cinque in the photos by Tanio Liotta. We start with Cream of pumpkin from Mantua, almond milk, cream of anchovies and puntarelle with lemon. Aside from the bread basket and the salted butter with porcini (every restaurant of Bartolini’s has butter aromatised in a different way)
Manita: puffed rice with aromatic herbs, tuna sauce
Potato mousse, parsley sauce, bottarga, powdered capers: a dish that recalls the famous Patata soffice, uovo e uova. Delicious
Risotto "Tricolore" – sun dried tomatoes, Grana Padano 24 months, herbs (chives, basil). The San Marzano is both as sauce and chopped, the rice thickened with butter. Delicious, of course
Spaghetti garlic and oil with a soup of sea urchins. Unexpectedly delicate
Sturgeon with parsley sauce, anise and mushrooms. The sturgeon is from Ticino, from Ars Italica, plus turnip tops, peperoni cruschi, bread sauce
Pork cheek with horseradish and amatriciana sauce. The cheek is cooked for 16 hours and served with potatoes and gnocchi with amatriciana sauce, Bartolini imagined this recipe for the "7 chef per Amatrice" event, see 7 chefs for Amatrice, the great cuisine is twice as good
Mandarin sorbet, citrus crumble, fresh mandarin
Rose gelato, raspberry, yogurt and liquorice. Raspberries are both fresh and as a frozen sauce, forming a sort of wafer
We have already presented Enrico Bartolini’s tips (Enrico Bartolini: here are my favourite things at Fico) for a visit and tasting of the best Fico Eataly World has to offer in Bologna, at Oscar Farinetti’s new gourmet Disneyland of which so much has been said over the past few weeks. The five-star Tuscan chef – two at Mudec, one each at Andana in Castiglione della Pescaia, Casual in Bergamo and Glam in Venice – opened here his fifth Italian restaurant, to which one should also add the restaurants in Hong Kong, Dubai and Abu Dhabi. So the restaurant is called Cinque, and has resident chef Salvatore Amato, born in Taranto in 1989 and taken from country resort Borgo Valle Rita in Ginosa Marina (Ta), with experience as Angelo Sabatelli’s sous chef when he was in Putignano and a prior internship with Bartolini, in the days of Devero.
Below, you’ll read about our very satisfying meal. As a reporter, I must first speak of the further news affecting Bartolini’s universe, which is in fact a constantly growing galaxy: «I’m about to open two bistros, both in Milan, with my friends from Pandenus. The first will be in Brera, in Via Mercato 24, where once was Resentin. It should be ready soon. It will be beautiful. The other will be in Piazza Gae Aulenti, in the “nuova Milano”, and we hope to open after February».
Bartolini at Identità Milano
What will Bartolini’s new bistros be like? «We want to find the right harmony with those who don’t necessarily want fine dining, and with the characterful clients at Mudec, who love both eating on the third floor and enjoying the bistro offer». There will be high quality coffee machines (with Gianni Frasi of Giamaica Caffè, «we will give the highest freedom to his creativity»), short menus for lunch and dinner. «We’ll also have gourmet pizza, and nice tableware, a good selection of “laid-back” wines, in very nice places, seating some 50 people, all at the right price». Dishes will cost between 10 and 25 euros, «I also have two very good chefs currently training». A rather intriguing news, and Bartolini continues: «I also have two more restaurants in mind [not bistros, but restaurants] but I will say no more for now, we’re still not totally ready».
Tables at Cinque
According to the agreement with Le Soste, as of January Cinque will host chefs who are members of the association six times a year, for two weeks. This way it will be possible to present a menu designed by two minds, Bartolini’s and the guest’s: «At Le Soste there are great professionals, real veterans. Creating this connection is very important for me».
Salvatore Amato
At Cinque you won’t find Bartolini’s classics, «we decided we’ll no longer serve the same dish in different restaurants. Each one must have a completely different offer». And what if a client asks, for instance, for his famous Risotto with beetroot and gorgonzola sauce? «We’ll make it, but off the menu, of course. And it will be interpreted differently. Same style, perhaps, same technique, same intensity, but the recipe will not be the same. We will change it based on the territory and the biodiversity. I’m not a fanatic of standardization: that’s not what I want. This is why I always need to have real chefs as my collaborators: in terms of quality, Cinque must be worth as much as Mudec. Plus this place is born with the idea of using only Italian ingredients».
The entrance to Cinque
In the photo gallery by Tanio Liotta, our lunch at Enrico Bartolini’s Cinque.
Cinque - Enrico Bartolini & Le Soste at Fico - Eataly World Via Paolo Canali 8, Bologna Tel. +39 051 0029246 Average prices: starters 23 euros, first courses 27, main courses 31, desserts 15 Tasting menu at 90 euros Open every day, for lunch and dinner
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief