Sandro Cubeddu and his ReMi in Sassari

After acquiring experience in Italy and abroad, the young pizzaiolo has returned to Sardinia to open an original restaurant

18-03-2019 | 13:00

There’s ferment in Sardinia. There are now many important and awarded names: like Massimo Bosco, mentioned above, or Pierluigi Fais of Framento. But there’s also an interesting project called Sa Scolla, which is soon to open a restaurant in 

Cagliari after pizzeria Accademia Casa Puddu in Baradili. And there are other young pizzaioli worth keeping an eye on.

One of these is for sure Sandro Cubeddu. Born in 1983, Sandro first approached pizza almost by chance when he was working – first as a kitchen hand, then helping the pizzaiolo – in some restaurants in the province of Sassari while studying at university. After learning the ropes he felt the need to grow and started his self-training. At 26 he opened his first place in Torralba, a small village in the area of Melogu, in the province of Sassari: a starting point which made his desire to find a personal route grow further.

So in 2016 he closed the restaurant and started to explore the island and the “continent” – but he also travelled around the world – in search of inspiration and new ideas. His stop at Simone Padoans, as well as tasting Gabriele Bonci’s pizzas were both crucial. But he didn’t want a format to copy: «Mostly, I was curious to understand what high-quality pizza was. I wanted to find my own way. I was struck by the idea of a tasting menu, I wanted to transform the classic giropizza in a different experience, matching different types of dough with toppings that follow the seasons».

So the offer at ReMi, opened in Sassari in 2017 (via Coradduzza 17. Tel. 333 1378998) took shape: not a pizzeria, but a restaurant focused on leavened products in a wider sense, «a place where you can discover something new», says Sandro when he explains how he chose the name: «It’s a bit of a metaphor, two notes that together form a sound, with their own style; we want to offer something good but without limitations. In a way, we’re still looking for our identity».

It’s all based on contemporary pizza, with 4 or 5 types of dough that differ in terms of process and shape, presented in a real tasting menu: from the welcome snacks with a slice of bread with local products, to the round pizza, with mother yeast (like Carlofortina with tomato sauce, fiordilatte, Mediterranean tuna, powdered capers, pecorino, taggiasche olives and lemon), and then the one with double leavening in the pan, seasoned with special ingredients (such as tuna carpaccio or beef tagliata) and the excellent pancrock – a sort of stuffed focaccia. And finally the ReMi burger, a sort of burger bun served in slices.

Desserts too, are based on leavened products with local ingredients; as for the pairings, there are nice wines from Sardinia (and beyond) and a selection of craft beers that change with the menu.

ReMi
Via Salvatore Coradduzza, 17
Sassari 
+39.333.1378998
Closed on Sunday for lunch


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