12-06-2014

Postcards from Vico

Gennaro Esposito’s lively event ended yesterday. Here are ten quick memories of ours

Four of the chefs that animated the dinner-maratho

Four of the chefs that animated the dinner-marathon at restaurant O'Saracino in Marina Aequa in Vico Equense (Naples), on the second night of Festa a Vico, organised by Gennaro Esposito and concluded yesterday. Left to right, Moreno Cedroni from Senigallia, Pino Cuttaia from Licata in Sicily, Ilario Vinciguerra from Gallarate and Antonino Cannavacciuolo from lake Orta in Piedmont

Except for a quick storm on Tuesday night, the eleventh edition of Festa a Vico arrived serenely at destination as did the preceding ten. Chefs – big or emerging one – pizza and pastry chefs, have descended or ascended in crowds from Alto Adige to Agrigento, in order to amuse thousands of people, engaged in a non-stop siege of the 5 scenic locations of the various events, between Vico Equense and Marina di Seiano. A touristic area, Paolo Marchi explained years ago and we agree, that should dedicate a monument to the organiser of all this, namely Gennaro Esposito, chef at Torre del Saracino, who’s more effective than two dozens of council members put together. We return home with these 10 memories in our head.

Gennaro Esposito toasts to the eleventh edition

Gennaro Esposito toasts to the eleventh edition

The predominance of old-fashion terms in the menu of the dinner-marathon with the “Big” chefs, organised on Monday at restaurant O'Saracino: Mauro Uliassi’s Ricciola alla puttanesca, Cannavacciuolo’s Scampo alla pizzaiola, the admittedly 1980s Pesce bandiera by Gennaro Esposito himself, Moreno Cedroni’s (tuna) Roast beef, the (Lamb in) parmigiana di melanzane by Nino Di Costanzo. Sometimes they come back (or have they always been here?).

During the same dinner, the Yogurt and mango egg cooked by Andrea Berton of the homonymous restaurant in Milan was also served, a very elegant dessert, which had the only defect of arriving at the 14th place in the dinner-marathon. Many guests missed it because they were already exhausted by the previous 13 tastings. A delight for the survivors.

The combination of dish and location uniting Babà with babà, mango and passion fruit mousse by Vincenzo Guarino of hotel Angiolieri in Vico and the view from the terrace of his restaurant Accanto, plummeting to the beach of Marina Aequa down below. A vertigo for the palate.

The Babà as cooked by Vincenzo Guarino of Accanto restaurant, inside hotel Angiolieri (photo by Sonia Gioia)

The Babà as cooked by Vincenzo Guarino of Accanto restaurant, inside hotel Angiolieri (photo by Sonia Gioia)

The summer panettoni by Gabriele Bonci and Roberta Pezzella, that stood out of a mountain of other delicious leavened products, served for breakfast beside the swimming pool of the Gran Hotel Moon Valley. Christmas in 35°C.

The “garage panettone” prepared by 23-year-old Francesco Guida of Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa in Vico. A delight prepared in a makeshift workshop. However, they will soon have a proper bakery. Panettoni forever.

Salvatore and Annamaria Degennaro, owners of Tradizione, an incredible gourmet showcase on the bends of Seiano and their land of plenty. Fantastic savoury babà and a mountain of wines and delicious cheese. One can also sit down and have a dish, perhaps one of those that come out of the new grill. They’re never tired of trying something new.

The ancestral tastings offered by Pasquale Palamaro of Indaco in Ischia and Salvatore Bianco of Comandante in Naples, one next to the other. Two creative Neapolitans of which little is still being said. They are silent new protagonists in town.

Gabriele Bonci and Roberta Pezzella, yeast magicians

Gabriele Bonci and Roberta Pezzella, yeast magicians

The tribute paid by the South American trio from Pont de Ferr to the great chef from Brescia Vittorio Fusari, who was just beside them, on the seafront at Bikini. Uruguayan Matias Perdomo, Argentinian Simon Press and Brazilian Mauricio Zillo finished their supply of Truffle, caviar and Franciacorta in a flash. Their tastings were scarfed down.

An express cannolo by Pietro D’Agostino of Capinera in Taormina (Catania) at Bikini. Local chefs went made. The two Sicilies were united once again.

55 thousand euros are the (still partial) proceeds of Festa a Vico 2014. The 80 thousand collected last year served to buy an ultrasound scanner, a special system for neonatal pathology and intensive therapy and gave great support in the prevention of syncope. This was confirmed by Ugo De Luca, head orthopaedist at Santobono’s hospital. This was the most important memory of all.


Dall'Italia

Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose

by

Gabriele Zanatta

born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. 
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