02-11-2017

Bon Amb, looking great in Alicante

Alberto Ferruz’s restaurant in Costa Blanca stands out thanks to a personal style. And many dishes worth a second visit

Alberto Ferruz of restaurant Bon Amb in Alicante

Alberto Ferruz of restaurant Bon Amb in Alicante, Spain. Two Michelin stars since edition 2017, he’s looking at the sea of Costa Blanca, the starting point for many of his creations (photo from bonamb.com)

After our first visit to Bon Amb, around a month ago, we were very surprised. Though the Michelin Guide was mistaken until now in not giving a second star to Ricard Camarena in Valencia (we wrote about it last week), in the case of Alberto Ferruz’s restaurant, they did a good job in giving it in the 2017 edition.

It was a very nice surprise. At 32, and after some internships he made good use of with Martín Berasategui, at El PobletTaillevent and recently De Librije, the cuisine of this young man has reached important standards. We can only lament that there’s no risotto in his menu, and that, like many others, Alberto can surrender to the “lime-yuzu-dashi-chilli pepper” trend, but you must acknowledge they’re perfectly used and harmonised in recipes with a Valencian background.

The restaurant’s entrance (photo bonamb.com)

The restaurant’s entrance (photo bonamb.com)

We found the cuisine personal (the influences, there are for sure, are not out of tune) and most of all very rich. This, they say, is shown by the fact that when you leave, you already know you’ll be back for a second visit. And if we recall dishes like Calamari tagliatelle or Pork rind, both very succulent, there’s complete happiness.

This is a well accomplished fine dining restaurant. They use modern techniques like liquid nitrogen but without special effects: in the frozen grapefruit tear, or by recuperating fermentation in the delicious Scabece with fermented pumpkin, crab, monkfish liver, hummus and pumpkin water.

From the well accomplished complexity you move to the impeccable simplicity of the Snapper with vegetal ash, emulsion of its bones, slightly covered with interesting strips of courgette skins preserved in vinegar. A good chef must know when it’s time to stop adding.

Photo from Instagram

Photo from Instagram

Among the desserts, the Yuba with miso ice cream and ginger sponge cake is very interesting. Nor should we forget the dining room service, often unjustly neglected. It is very competent, humble and attentive, thanks to second maître Juanjo Navarro. There’s no need to announce dishes as if they were the world’s eight marvel. Being nice and empathic with clients is much more important.

Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso

Bon Amb
carrer Benitachell, 100
Alicante
Spain
+34.965.084440
Average prices: 19, 30 and 14 euros
Tasting menu: 86, 98 and 135 euros


Dal Mondo

Reviews, recommendations and trends from the four corners of the planet, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose

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Philippe Regol

A French graduate in Spanish Philology, for 40 years now he’s been living in Barcelona and for 20 he’s been a cook. A lover of gastronomy, he now livens up the Observación Gastronómica 2 blog 

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