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Pier Giorgio e Luca Parini Rodrigo Oliveira Heston Blumenthal Eric Pras Cesare Battisti Yoshihiro Narisawa Nadia, Antonio e Giovanni Santini
Massimo Bottura Identità  Golose - i protagonisti della cucina Roberto e Fiorella Ghisolfi
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10-04-2014

Henderson, a lifetime achievement

British chef Fergus Henderson just won the Lifetime Achievement Award, ahead of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2014, taking place on the 28th of April at the London's Guildhalil. A meat maestro and founding partner of St. John, with several restaurants in London, Henderson has been awarded mainly because of the promotion of nose-to-tail cooking – the use of every part of the animal, which is now practised in many kitchens

30-03-2014

Ninth Festival Loiseau at Belle Mare Plage

Ninth edition from 30th March, at Belle Mare Plage, a resort of Constance group on the island of Mauritius, of the Festival Culinaire Bernard Loiseau, ending Sunday 6th April. Six European young starred chefs and six young chefs of Constance group will cook divided into pairs, one cook from abroad one from here. In the jury, with madame Dominique Loiseau and chef Patrick Bertron, also Identità Golose with Paolo Marchi

25-03-2014

Helena Rizzo best female chef 2014

Helena Rizzo, chef of Maní restaurant in Sao Paolo, Brazil, is the Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef 2014, according to the jury of World's 50Best Restaurant. Rizzo succeeds in the award to glorious colleagues such as Nadia Santini, Bask Elena Arzak and French Anne-Sophie Pic. The paulista chef will be awarded in London on next 28th April, the day when the 50 best restaurant's list will be officially announced

12-03-2014

Berezutskiy best Russian young chef

It's Sergej Berezutskiy from Moscow the best young chef of the year 2014 in his country. The title, awarded today at restaurant White Rabbit in Moscow by an almost entirely Italian jury, will allow the cook to take part to the S.Pellegrino Cooking Cup 2014, scheduled in Venice for next June. Sergej is the twin brother of Ivan, already a name in the panorama of young and creative Russian cuisine

24-02-2014

Nahm at the top of Asia

Bangkok's Nahm has been voted the best restaurant according to the S.Pellegrino Asia's World's 50 Best. The restaurant by chefs Thompson and Polsuk (recently seen at Identità Milano) ensues Tokyo's Narisawa, who ranked second this year. At the 3rd place, an Indian restaurant, Gaggan, based in Bangkok. Hong Kong's Amber ranked 4th and Tokyo's Ryugin 5th. With 17 restaurants out of the 50 China is the most represented country in the list

15-02-2014

Bonci and Cuttaia ready for Omnivore

Paris, France, March 16-18th: the next edition of Omnivore, the "100% jeune cuisine" cooking congress, is ready to start at the Maison de la Mutualité, rue Saint Victor. In between the French chefs, both promising and already successful - from Piège to Toutain; from Pierre Gagnaire to Guillame Monjuré -  the schedule will include two Italians: Pino Cuttaia from Sicily and bread-and-pizza chef Gabriele Bonci from Rome

31-01-2014

Italy-Thailand, a dinner at Trussardi

An important dinner will take place on Sunday February the 9th at Trussardi Alla Scala in Milan: resident chef Luigi Taglienti will host colleagues Dylan Jones and Bo Songvisava of Bo.lan restaurant in Bangkok, for a special meal organized together with Identità Golose. The tasting menu will include 6 dishes at the cost of 150 euro per person. For informations and bookings, alessandrolonghin-ext@trussardi.com, +39.366,6467249 

20-01-2014

Ice-cream: France wins, Italy second

France has just won the sixth edition of Coppa del Mondo di Gelateria, Ice-cream world cup, at Sigep in Rimini. The team's subject, led by Elie Cazaussus and composed by Christophe Bouret, Benoit Lagache, Jean Christophe Vitte and Yazid Ichemrahen was about “Leonardo Da Vinci's universe”. Italy ranked second with Stefano Biasini, Massimo Carnio, Marco Martinelli e Luca Mazzotta. Poland ranked third

03-01-2014

Luigi Nastri heads to Paris

Starting today, Luigi Nastri, always a chef of Settembrini in Rome, is the cook chief of Gazzetta restaurant in Paris. The former chef (and founder) Petter Nillson decided it was time to go back to Stockholm where his family lives. As Scatti di Gusto states, the Roman colony in Paris is now stronger than ever: after Giovanni Passerini at Rino, now it's time for Luigi Nastri

28-12-2013

Eater's best restaurants 2013

Pakta in Barcelona, Amass and Bror in Copenaghen, Carbone and Mission Cantina in New York, Chengdu Taste in Los Angeles, Edwins in Cleveland, Saltimporten Canteen in Malmö. Sweden, Vin Papillon in Montreal (Canada). These are just a few of many restaurants quoted into the traditional Eater's survey. The renowned food online magazine asked the opinion to several important food journalists and experts

16-12-2013

Gvci, Salicrù chef of the year

Ivan Icra Salicrù of restaurant Ronda in Dubai was nominated chef of the year by Gvci, Gruppo virtuale di cuochi italiani, an award estabilished to celebrate non Italian chefs cooking Italian cuisine abroad. Salicrù will receive a silver plate and will be invited to take part, next January the 17th, to the International Day of Italian Cuisines. The Italian dish they celebrate this year is Spaghetti with tomato and basil

12-12-2013

AltoGusto at Tivoli in Cortina

Dolomiti mountains are hosting AltoGusto, a gastronomic tour dedicated to cucina d'autore in the best restaurants of the area, with menu inspired by the theme "Cinema in the kitchen". On Friday December 13th, you can have dinner at Tivoli in Cortina d'Ampezzo (Belluno) with chef Graziano Prest and Cantine Ferrari, together with an homage to actor Alberto SordiAltoGusto will proceed then with 6 more dinners

02-12-2013

Happy birthday, Identità English

December 2nd 2012 – December 2nd 2013 – the English version of Identità Golose’s website turns one. During the past 365 days, Slawka G. Scarso’s team has translated as many as 410 articles in 28 sections, a great number of pieces to be added to the over 300 portraits of chefs and to the hundreds of recipes that have enriched the website from the start. This important project aims to increase the audience of enthusiasts far beyond the Italian borders

27-11-2013

Casa Vicina's 10th anniversary

Tomorrow night, great dinner at Eataly Lingotto in Turin. They will celebrate the 10th year anniversary of restaurant Casa Vicina - Guido per Eataly, one Michelin star. Together with Claudio and Anna Vicina there will also be chef Peter Brunel. Dinner is 75 euro per person, wines included, 8 courses from Potato cooked in argyle together with rice stems and trout eggs to an Inusual panettone. For bookings +39.011.19506840

19-11-2013

Bottura and the Operazione Parigi

It's called Operazione Parigi and it's a project that is "going to take Italian food culture to the gastronomic capital of the world", with lectures on excellence held at the Italian institute of culture taken by Massimo Bottura, the first promoter, together with 16 important colleagues: Uliassi, Cedroni, Esposito, Perbellini, Cuttaia, Sultano, Oldani, Romito, Alajmo, Cannavacciuolo, Cracco, Scabin, Beck, Crippa, Berton, Cerea and Niederklofer

 

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Identità Golose 10 years (Video Brambilla - Serrani - Cicogna, duration 5'31")

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18-04-2014

Lopriore goes back home

The great chef from Como starts a new adventure, called Kitchen. Lake fish and creativity

Bresaola, wild herbs and alosa agone paté, one of the new dishes in Kitchen’s menu, part of the Grand Hotel di Como, tel. +39.031.5160460, Paolo Lopriore’s new home. The 40 year-old chef from Appiano Gentile is back after 10 years at Il Canto della Certosa di Maggiano, Siena
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Bresaola, wild herbs and alosa agone paté, one of the new dishes in Kitchen’s menu, part of the Grand Hotel di Como, tel. +39.031.5160460, Paolo Lopriore’s new home. The 40 year-old chef from Appiano Gentile is back after 10 years at Il Canto della Certosa di Maggiano, Siena


The news had been going on for some time, seasoned with lots of creativity. Finally the time has come. Paolo Lopriore opened his new home, restaurant Kitchen, within the Grand Hotel di Como. The latter is a comfortable 4 star resort, part of Meta, a company owned by the De Santis family, renown entrepreneurs in the local hospitality scene. It is a modern and refined space, which suits the sober elegance of the lake very well. The dining room is deliberately informal, with now frills on the tables, no candles and ornaments, seating thirty people at most.

Lopriore came full circle in his journey, arriving from Siena to his homeland, helped by the soundness of his 40 years of age and by the knowledge gained during his productive travelling in the great kitchens of half the world. As in all cases that come unexpected, his return to Como had also an accidental note, but the chef was good in creating a tailor-made project: at Kitchen he’s free to produce his extreme, abstract and conceptual avantgarde, motivated by a setting that is much different from the one in the countryside of Siena, which enwrapped him for over a decade.

Italian chub with beef marrow, candied lemon, fresh broad beans and bitter almond sauce, a brilliant dish
Foto

Italian chub with beef marrow, candied lemon, fresh broad beans and bitter almond sauce, a brilliant dish

The fact the stimuli are the right ones, can be seen by looking into his sparkling eyes while he shows the wild herbs foraged the same day in the mountain paths around. When he tries to translate the joy of working with freshwater fish «which first requires to be cleaned in detail, and then prepared with wisdom. But then repays you with excellent results». Giving value to local raw materials and producers will become an essential mission in his creative process.

During the first dinner at Kitchen we tasted some Italian chub with beef marrow, candied lemon, fresh broad beans and a sauce of bitter almonds, a dish that let’s one understand a particular musical symphony of flavours, the same for which master Gualtiero Marchesi has always described Lopriore, his favourite pupil, as a true «absolute palate». The Acquerello rice, masterly cooked, is instead paired with missoltino (sundried lake alosa agone), black pepper and wood sorrel: a rendition of a local tradition seasoned with a balanced aggressiveness and an apparent taste dissonance.

The Duck breast is cooked at 100°C for a few minutes, with the objective of keeping texture and flavour intact. The aroma of the gentian surrounding it, together with that of the fresh pine seeds and of the pine honey, add a balsamic note that makes everything perfect. But there’s a surprise, a second service with the cooking juices served with brine olive and a bread cantuccio to make guests taste even the traditional part of the recipe. Lots of creativity can also be found in the desserts: Bitter coffee wafer on curdled milk, white chocolate and caramel mousse or cakes on sticks in a glass boule.

Trenta coperti al massimo
Foto

Trenta coperti al massimo

In the kitchen, he is sided by two young cooks while in the dining room there’s Stefano Gaiofatto, a good interpreter of his creations. The initial offer includes a tasting menu with 5 main courses for 80 euros, or the choice of two or three dishes for 40 and 55 euros. The wine list, managed by Lopriore himself, does not follow the traditional structure and offers around 10 labels, also served by the glass, which change every two weeks.

This story is not born as a structured one but will take shape gradually. It’s a work in progress project, and the same goes for the supervision of Kinko, a twin and alternative space in which people can taste pizza and grilled meat around the pool. The mind is buzzing, with a strong desire for challenges. Lopriore is back to the future, something he considers as an important step, rather than the finish line.

Kitchen
Grand Hotel Como
Via per Cernobbio, 41a
+39.031.5160460
Tasting menu 40, 55 and 80 euros
Closed on Sunday nights and the entire day on Mondays

Chiara Aiazzi
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