Fernando Darin from Ray’s & Stark Bar inside the Museum of Modern Art in Los Angeles and Corrado Scaglione of Enosteria Lipen, in Triuggio, Brianza (photo by Brambilla/Serrani)
«Many people abroad believe we only eat pasta or pizza. And it is partly true», starts Paolo Marchi at Identità Chicago day 2, «Today, like yesterday, we’re here to present two pizzaioli with very wide horizons: a Neapolitan who lives in Brianza and one of Italian origins born in Brazil and now working in California».
The establishment of the first speaker, Enosteria Lipen, is in Triuggio, Brianza. But Corrado Scaglione has the south in his Dna. So who better than him could explain the guidelines for Neapolitan pizza, established in 1984, to the American audience?
«There are 4 ingredients: water, flour, salt and yeast. But there’s a fifth, passion. If you don’t have it, you’ll never manage to control all the variables to which the dough is subjected: temperature, weather, movements, technique...».
Meanwhile, he starts kneading in a typical wood kitchen chest: «I make the dough from a batter of water, salt and flour. I add the yeast later». He then leaves it to rest so that the flour can absorb the water. You need technical skills and an understanding of the flour, Petra in this case: «The flour is crucial. In Naples it’s just white flour, “Il fiore della farina” made from the inner part of the wheat grain. I change 3 types of flour every year, depending on the season».
Darin's Pizza di mare
Fernando Darin, Sarah Minnick, Vince Gerasole, Piero Gabrieli, Corrado Scaglione and Paolo Marchi
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes.
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