26-09-2018
Paco Roncero at Identità Milano with his Free range rooster royale with mole poblano and corn (photos from Sonia Santagostino)
Spanish avantgarde is (was) not a trend, a passing fashion. It’s now a given fact in global cuisine. Still, we must also consider a later lesson:« this is no longer time to abuse of techniques, because clients love to taste recognisable dishes above all. They like to be surprised, but subtly, elegantly. They want flavours in foreground». So hurray for avantgarde, as long as it’s comprehensible, and has an inclusive approach with guests, «because we should always remember: avantgarde is now everywhere, in Spain and around the world. But for every restaurant of this kind there are at least one hundred serving traditional cuisine».
Roncero in the kitchen observed by our resident chef Alessandro Rinaldi
Paco Roncero
Roncero between Alessio Sebastiani, sous chef at Identità Milano, and Javier Alonso, jefe de cocina at Terraza del Casino in Madrid, Roncero’s two-starred restaurant
Preparing mole poblano
Andrea Ribaldone, pastry chef Gabriele Tangari, Alessandro Rinaldi, Paco Roncero, Javier Alonso
Rinaldi with Roncero and Alonso
Playing in the kitchen
Roncero and Rinaldi
Almond, melon and yuzu
Sole with black butter
Free range rooster royale with mole poblano and corn
Crème brûlée with citrus fruits
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
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by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief