In the background, Carlo Cracco, the first speaker of the second day at #IdentitàMilano21. Close up, Luca Sacchi, chef at Cracco in Galleria
«Luca, Mattia, Giulia and all the others have been working with me for a long time now. It's been a difficult time. Paolo Marchi has already announced that the next congress will be in April. A good sign». Carlo Cracco debuts in the Auditorium with these words, giving the first talk of the second day at #identitamilano21. And there's immediately the 10-minute video summing up, dish by dish, the value of the current tasting menu available in Galleria, conceived with Luca Sacchi, chef in pectore.
Caramelised Russian Salad: «We tried to put an idea of cuisine inside a treasure chest. An elegant idea with strong roots». Later the chef from Vicenza revealed the tormented genesis of his emblem dish: «At the beginning of my career, I hated making Russian salad: the potatoes and carrots were never the same, and I had to make them again and again. In 2000, when I arrived at Peck, there were mountains of Russian salad. Are people still eating this? I was surprised. The Stoppani brothers challenged me: if you can make a long-lasting dish, it means you have become good. The Caramelised Russian Salad is in the menu to this day». A redemption.
Bombolone with sea weed and sea urchins: «It's a bread with sea weed cooked twice (steamed and fried), a sort of evolution of a maritozzo».
Sea salad world tour: «It's the story of our vision of sea and travel. It collects many ingredients and assembles them».
Crispy purple prawn from S. Margherita ligure with September mushrooms: «This recipe portrays the biodiversity and uniqueness of our sea better than anything else, prolonging their story».
Think Green: «Kiwi is the protagonist here. The dish translates green thinking, sustainability, respect for the environment into a recipe ».
LONGLASTING. Caramelised Russian Salad, in the menu for over 20 years
Pesto potatoes and French beans: «A triptych that tastes of Liguria. I adore potatoes, which are much more than a texture. It's all enclosed in potatoes, and then again wrapped in a potato».
Lukewarm spaghettoni, reduced jus of chargrilled fish, celery and tomato with ginger: «This represents in a very complex but linear way a journey, the idea for which pasta collects the essence of the fish and presents it through tomato and ginger».
Zuppa Pavese: «A dish from the 16th Century. It's not a recipe but a sum of many ingredients collected at the time and served. We've presented it with a more sophisticated broth. And the egg, is a mountain egg».
Cream of almonds with a smoky nuance, boiled parsley and fondant of veal bone marrow: «The bone marrow is a tribute to this marvellous city which has always made me think».
Pulp of tomato, balsamic herbs and preserved cherries: «A pre-dessert, an intermezzo, with cherries preserved in vinegar and a touch of salt.
Cream of amaretto, peaches with lemon balm, cocoa and Alkermes: «Luca should present it, he's a pastry chef each day, and makes this better than I do».
The Cracco Boys
born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes.