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17-05-2022

Reportage "The Future is Theirs" at Identità Milano 2022: Pierluigi Fais

At the congress, the cook and entrepreneur from Cagliari, patron of Josto, Etto amd Framento told us of how he uses sheep's meat in his menu, using every part of the animal

Pierluigi Fais, with two members of his brigade, g

Pierluigi Fais, with two members of his brigade, gave a practical demonstration of how to fully use sheep's meat (All photos from Brambilla/Serrani)

To whom does the future belong? To them, to young people. And despite how they are often deemed to be scarcely inclined to work and sacrifice, they continue to grow well. Very well in some cases, as with the young people who participated in Identità Milano 2022 in the section “The Future is Theirs”.

«Sheep farming is one of the pillars of Sardinian economy, where shepherding is the most popular activity». From the stage of Il futuro è loro, the future is theirs, Pierluigi Fais, butcher, chef and patron at restaurant Josto in Cagliari launched an invitation not to undervalue the culinary value of some types of meat.

«Sheep's meat has always been unpopular because, from a sales perspective, there is no such thing as an organised supply chain, and there's never been a farmers' movement with shared goals». And he continues: «Sheep's meat has a delicate and elegant flavour, of pastures, not gamey as many claim. And the ageing gives excellent results. Consumption was immediate once, the butchering wasn't clean and often these animals had already died, and were not butchered following the rules. Tradition often stopped us from growing».

Fais with Eugenio Signoroni, who hosted the lesson

Fais with Eugenio Signoroni, who hosted the lesson

Fais's research was on how to include sheep's meat in the menu: «Given that the filet is only 200 grams and that all the pieces are small and never homogenous, in these years of research we learnt how to use the entire animal, dividing it into single cuts and creating dishes ad hoc».

So from a sheep matured three weeks, the cook born in 1982, skilfully obtains all the cuts and starts his recipes. «With the clean round we make a delicious steak tartare which we serve with a reduction of hibiscus, a paste made with toasted Baressa almonds, wild celery and wild garlic flowers». The second recipe is Roasted Sheep: sirloin and flank served with a cream of potatoes, oil and salt, onions and onion jus.

«With the shoulder we make Pecora bollita 2.0: a terrine of boiled sheep with wine and bitter wild herbs, served with a salad of watercress, wild fennel and wild celery, and a vinaigrette with sapa and mustard mayo». Sustainability? «These are animals “at the end of their career”, who have given all the milk they could offer and who needed to close circle anyway».

 

Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso


IG2022: the future is now

by

Davide Visiello

Born in 1974 near Naples, now living further south, he’s a sommelier and coffee taster convinced that those born in Vico Equense like him have a gourmet imprinting by birth. He lives, writes and organises events in Palermo, but eats and drinks everywhere

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