05-03-2022
Left to right, Alessandro Martellini and Antonio Guida. The former arrived as an intern at Il Pellicano in Porto Ercole a few years ago, and discovered in Guida a crucial teacher
Disclaimer. The story below is not for everyone. Because game is not for everyone. It was however the protagonist of a four-handed dinner that had us travel to Selva di Val Gardena, and of an enlightening chat with Antonio Guida, chef at Seta del Mandarin Oriental in Milan, his executive sous chef Federico Dell’Omarino, e the chef of Suinsom dell’Hotel Tyrol, Alessandro Martellini.
The fact this story is not for everyone has to do with the very respectable ethical issues that are connected with hunting. We're not talking of poaching, but of supplies that come from sources that are respectful of quality and health control, finding in this their strength. The diriment issue is that of the prejudice that has game, says Guida, «as a meat with strong, pungent flavours, often "tired" because of the long ageing».
Partridge (breast, foam of potatoes, spinach, black truffle), Alessandro Martellini
Terrine of duck and guinea fowl, Vadouvan and Périgord Sauce, Antonio Guida
Cannellone made with chestnut flour, wild rabbit, scorzonera truffle, green pepper sauce, black truffle, Antonio Guida
Pink duck, beurre blanc, sconcigli, turnip tops, Alessandro Martellini
Hare à la Royale, Antonio Guida
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose
by
A journalist from Catania, now in Milan, she was born in 1966. «I travel, meet people and tell stories on Volevofareilgiornalista» and on numerous other publications
The team at Spicchi d’arte, pizzeria in Tricase (Lecce). From the top left corner, in the red shirt Simona Ferraro, Stefano Moretto, Alessandra Rizzo, Davide Signorile, Chiara Sabato, Matteo Ventura. In the middle, left to right: Giorgio Sciurti, Stefania Vantaggiato, owner Ippazio Ricchiuto. At the bottom, left to right: Luca Bleve, Danilo D’Aversa and Federico Paiano