Carmen Vecchione
D-Limousine belly salad with puntarelle and mustard by Gian Pietro e Giorgio Damini
Dall'Italia Prato Nevoso, montagna & cibo. Viaggio nella località del Cuneese che cresce anche grazie alla gastronomia
The moeche, an emblem of Osteria Cera in Campagna Lupia (Venezia), 2 Michelin stars,+39.041.5189954. The history of the restaurant, today guided by Daniele and Lionello Cera, starts 40 years ago when they still served ciccheti (Venetian tapas) and glasses of white wine
I’ll never forget what a friend of mine who lives in the mountains always says: you don’t know how lucky you are to live near the sea. In fact, the beneficial properties of the sea air are renowned, but my friend also refers to the additional possibility of eating good and fresh fish more often. I admit it’s obvious but if you want to eat some excellent fish, it’s best to look for it in a sea-side town, better if it’s a great and historic city like Venice, one of the most important Maritime republics.
The required-stop in Venice is at Antica Osteria da Cera in Lughetto Campagna Lupia on the road to Chioggia where, since 1966, the Cera family continues a strong maritime tradition. The philosophy, over here, is one: namely the respect for raw materials is the foundation for a cuisine in which the surprise is based on simplicity.
Raw fish in 12 different ways
The slate dish with 12 tastings of raw fish with different textures is a real expression of the freshness and the colours of the sea: this dish, as Lionello illustrates, has been served for over 15 years following the same rule: the catch is that of the day. The Local crab soup with lemon aromatised potato is a concentrate of taste. The crab, Lorena explains, is processed when raw, and added only at the end, so as to maintain all its flavour. The aroma of the sea reaches its top with the Broeto de pesse (fish soup) with polenta, ricotta and pancetta, a review of a pie-dish once prepared in noble Venetian houses.
Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose