23-12-2019
Guillaume Sanchez, 29, chef at Neso in Paris (one Michelin star), in a photo from GQ France, which awarded him as chef of 2018
Admired or criticised, Guillaume Sanchez is certainly not the kind of person ready for compromises. And if this chef deserves attention for his “case” it’s not for his tattoos and his TV performances, but for his cuisine and his way of structuring a dish and, most of all, structuring a meal. To put it short, at Neso it’s food on which the interest is entirely focused. Because Sanchez, born in Bordeaux and not yet 30-years-old, stands out strongly in the culinary scene thanks to recipes that are, so to speak, unprecedented, the result of carefully thought-over preparations. Among other things, the young chef pays a particularly strong attention to fermentation processes that allow him to preserve and later use products, even several weeks after he’s received them.
Croque marin (photo instagram/osanchaise)
Stuffed mussels, candied pumpkin, candied and broth of the Île de France (photo instagram/osanchaise)
Neso’s team (photo Stephanie Biteau)
There’s no doubt his training as a pastry-chef induces him to create aesthetically impeccable dishes. Why should one not enjoy beauty when it does not compromise the overall result? Or appreciate the satisfaction of the guests, who are without any doubt initially intrigued by the names of the dishes? The textures and the flavours he creates are a constant destabilisation of the guest’s certainties. An example is given by a recently conceived technique: «We cook turbot in a gelatine made with sea water. The heat causes a jellification that cooks the fish jellifying it. The result is the same as with vacuum cooking, but without the vacuum pack». Guillaume Sanchez has been at the helm of Neso for two years now, and already shows an impressive maturity, proving also that French gastronomy still has what it takes to renew itself. Neso Rue Papillon 6 Paris, France +33148240413 Tasting menu only, for 55 (lunchtime), 90 and 120 (dinner) euros Closed on Saturday and Sunday
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As a journalist he’s been writing about contemporary creations (art, architecture, design) and art de vivre (food, wine and mixology) for over 25 years. He writes for magazines (Air France Madame, TheGood Life, Les Echos SL and Ideat) and guides (Lebey, Interni...). Since 2016 he’s the editor in chief at Cuisines Révolution