It’s a great Italy in London

The risk is that of getting distracted by the precious products in Harrods, the endless mythological shopping area in the centre of London. But at some point you very happily find your way towards the destination that is most at heart: the lower ground floor, down the escalators from the luxury watch department, right beyond Ladurée. These are the headquarters of the #stelledistelle restaurant, which yesterday was rushed by British journalists, who were eager to take photos of the 5 Italian chefs, a total of 13 Michelin stars, who every day, at lunchtime and dinner, will illuminate the taste of the Great Italy in Knightsbridge for 5 months.

We’ve already covered in detail the dinners’ programme and their leitmotif. It is now important for us to tell about the fibrillation that yesterday was assailing the participants to the event’s press conference. First of all Michael Ward, managing director at Harrods: «We started in 2011 with Thomas Keller’s pop-up restaurant and never stopped. Italians prove more than any other how much passion can be put into food and wine. We are happy to welcome 5 among the best chefs in the world. Thirteen Michelin stars that cannot compete with anyone else. An unbelievable achievement for which I thank from now the chefs and Identità Golose who brought them here».

Over to Paolo Marchi: «For the second year, we’re guests at Harrods and for us this is an excellent demonstration of trust. Thanks to the protagonists of this year, from Carlo Cracco to Chicco Cerea, who has a restaurant close to the airport in Bergamo, so it is easy to reach», he jokes, «to Gennaro Esposito, so big he contains two restaurants, one in Sorrento’s Peninsula and one in Capri. Annie Feolde, the only woman in the world who has managed to have 3 Michelin stars and then have them back, and Enrico Crippa. Thanks to all the sponsors who allow us to organise important days like this: Expo Milano, Grana Padano, Acqua Panna e S.Pellegrino, Lavazza, Birra Moretti, Cantine Ferrari, Molino Quaglia, Villa Sparina, Ottosoldi and Consorzio Prosciutto di Parma. And thanks to the Italian ambassador in London, Pasquale Terracciano, for participating with us today».

Over to the 5 protagonists, for whom London is an important test bed but also a sort of theme park. Even for someone who’s always been «French oriented» such as Carlo Cracco: «It’s taken me a long time to get here, the first time I was 15. I later learnt to appreciate the fantastic offer of this town. I really love the cocktails at Connaught. Last night, after the service, I went to the Duck & Waffle and I tasted a peculiar one with veal marrow. I will visit the great Brett Graham’s Anima and The Ledbury».

Enrico Crippa is another fan of the Australian chef who chased vandals away with baseball bats: «I arrived here for a dinner with 4 hands before the latest 50Best. He’s a great chef who understands the meaning of the seasons, in a town that has such a large offer that you can feel disoriented. I adore it and I’m so happy to see so many bicycles all around». He’s an experienced cycler.

Chicco Cerea, instead, enjoys strolling around from one Asian establishment to the other «I’ve tried all the great classics, here, from Gavroche to the Waterside Inn but I’m crazy for Lebanese, Indian, Chinese restaurants. For me London hosts the most beautiful locations in the world. They’ve often asked me to collaborate and who knows if soon this might be the case». For Gennaro Esposito London is «austere, organised and multi-ethnic. The Square, Zuma, are all great restaurants. But I come here to listen to the rock of the generation before mine: Led Zeppelin, Beatles, Jimi Hendrix».

No one, however, beats the story told by Madame Annie Feolde: «I set foot on London for the first time in 1968. From here I observed the protests of the young people in Paris. I had arrived to learn English. I was chosen as an au pair by an old couple and I only had to look after their dog every now and then. I always appreciated the English wit». How about the food? «I remember a fun establishment called the Swiss Centre, in Trafalgar. They made Swiss, French, Italian and German dishes. But one could not say that at that time there was any sort of serious cuisine in London. 46 years later, many things have changed». Not the prestige enjoyed by Enoteca Pinchiorri, though, on one side and the other of the Channel.