ViniVeri number ten

Here comes the tenth edition of ViniVeri – Vini secondo Natura (Wines according to Nature) organised by Consorzio Viniveri from April 6th to April 8th in Cerea (Verona). In order to represent the new edition, an illustration by Martina Peluso was chosen: it represents the sequence of the seasons determining the ripening of the grapes, of which man can only gather the fruits in the form of wine.

More or less in the same days (7th-10th April), in the nearby Verona, Vinitaly will take place. The event dedicates the Vivit-Vigne Vignaioli Terroir area to “artisanal” wines – while Villa Favorita in Sarego (Vicenza) will host another event, namely VinNatur, Associazione viticoltori naturali. There’s a growing number of events and organizations, a testimony of the unstoppable vitality of a growing (even from an economic point of view) sector which, however, still suffers from a condition of juridical and terminological vagueness, so much so that – putting controversies to the side – one doesn’t know how to define these wines that are the fruit of a minimal human intervention, respecting nature’s rhythms and processes.

This is a true paradox, due to which the wines that more than any other have the objective of representing the territory on which they are born in their most intimate identities, in fact don’t have an identity per se. «For us it is essential to represent the identity of a territory and the respect for nature – Giampiero Bea, president of Consorzio Viniveri and vine-dresser in Montefalco said, during the presentation of the event which took place at Caffè Propaganda in Rome last February – and we would like to have the possibility to continue to do this work while respecting the law and in harmony with others».

He was echoed by Paolo Vodopivec, vice-president of the Consorzio, who in Sgonico (Friuli) produces truly interesting wines including a fascinating Vitovska in amphora: «Our objective is that of giving visibility to small wineries and to their work. Viniveri is an event with a precise identity, very close to our production philosophy, which is linked to the earth and to professional ethics». «We endorse the right to inform the consumer about what he’s really drinking –Bea continues – wine is the only food product for which it is not obligatory to indicate the ingredients on the label. These should be 80% water, 12% alcohol and, for the remaining part, the flavours of the territory, with nothing else to be added».

Something, however, is changing: the event in Cerea – which will host 120 producers from all around the world – will be the occasion for a meeting between the different European associations of “natural” vine-dressers, who in the meantime have signed an open-letter to Gambero Rosso together, in reply to an editorial and an article which appeared in the magazine, openly criticising these products.

But, more importantly, a debate has began with the Ministry of Agricultural Policies, invited to solve the lack of a clear legislation. From this attention of the institutions (in this case Inea, Istituto nazionale di economia agraria – the National institute of agricultural economy) a book was also born, namely "Custodi di Identità – storie di contadini e delle loro vigne", which illustrates the stories of the 17 vine-dressers who are members of Consorzio Viniveri through their territory and their wines.