03-03-2014

Cracco’s Segheria

The debut of the new restaurant in Milan, where the chef bets on eggs, Josper-cooked meat and great cocktails

The scenic industrial architecture of Carlo e Cami

The scenic industrial architecture of Carlo e Camilla In Segheria, Carlo Cracco’s and Tanja Solci’s new project in Via Meda 24 in Milan, +39.02.8373963. Nicola Fanti, the third partner, is in the dining room, Emanuele Pollini is in the kitchen with Simone Gobbi. Filippo Sisti is the bartender (photo Niccolò Vecchia)

In the past few years, Segheria was run by owner Tanja Solci directly. However, little under two years ago, she decided to give it a different end use. So she had the idea of contacting Carlo Cracco and offering him a collaboration, which was very soon accepted.

A selection of meat cooked in the Josper, a machine that is halfway between oven and grill

A selection of meat cooked in the Josper, a machine that is halfway between oven and grill

A few months of work later, in these very days, the doors of Carlo e Camilla In Segheria have opened (in the wait for a real website, there’s a Facebook page): an ironic name (it hints at the royal couple) for a very peculiar restaurant, born out of the meeting between these two partners. However, there’s also been the introduction of a third partner, namely Nicola Fanti, a 28-year-old man from Romagna who 5 years ago followed his passion for restaurants and opened Da Oreste, an osteria that became very successful, in the centre of Sant'Arcangelo di Romagna.

Fanti is keen on pointing out that the choice of the chef was his own responsibility: and with great enthusiasm he named Emanuele Pollini, another young man from Romagna, with an international experience, including restaurant Clooney in Auckland, New Zealand. The little over 70 guests the Segheria can host are put in line in a unique, large white cross-shaped table. No tablecloths or napkins. Only paper – decorated, as in the case of the menu, thanks to Gianluca Biscalchin’s drawings.

Emanuele Pollini, a chef from Romagna region with stages in New Zealand

Emanuele Pollini, a chef from Romagna region with stages in New Zealand

The impressive decor and lighting were designed entirely by Tanja Solci, who wanted to spread all sorts of china over all the table: plates, sauce boats, cups, soup tureens - again favouring white. These pieces of china, however, are not to be used for the service, just like the old decorated plates that the guests find when taking their seat. The same goes for the large crystal chandeliers hanging from the very tall ceiling, which remain turned off, illuminated by theatrical lights that allow to distribute tasteful lights and shadows.

The menu prepared by Carlo Cracco and Emanuele Pollini will change very often: its first edition is divided between some ten starters, 4 meat dishes and 3 desserts. It’s not by chance that the first two dishes in the list are two egg-based recipes: in particular, the '”egg benedict”, served on a nest made with bran and shiso, is one of the most scenic preparations in the menu. However, there are no dishes trying to over-surprise the guests: the Fried rice with tomato, stracciatella and basil, the Spaghetti with anchovies, shallot, lime and coffee, or the Ravioli with artichoke and formaggio di fossa are recipes that can sound familiar to most guests, and the presentation too, aims for substance rather than surprise.

70 seats on a single crossed-shape table

70 seats on a single crossed-shape table

One important characteristic in Carlo e Camilla In Segheria’s kitchen is and will increasingly be the Josper: all the four meats are cooked in this special oven, in which the heat is created by real embers, closed in a drawer under the oven, generating very intense aromas and scents.

People won’t come here only to eat, though. It would be a pity not to enjoy one of the many cocktails prepared by another young and talented man, namely Filippo Sisti, a bartender with previous experience at the Four Seasons and at Rita, who wanted to create a creative list full of fun ideas, largely focused on the use of herbs, spices and very extravagant ingredients such as a vermouth left in infusion with Blue Stilton.

Carlo e Camilla In Segheria
Via Meda, 24
20136 Milan
+39.02.8373963
Average prices: starters 15, meat 22, desserts 9 euro
Open only in the evening; aperitif from 18.30
Closed on Sundays


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Niccolò Vecchia

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Niccolò Vecchia

Journalist, based in Milan. At 8 years old, he received a Springsteen record as a gift, and nothing was the same since. Music and food are his passions. Author and broadcaster at Radio Popolare since 1997, since 2014 he became part of the staff of Identità Golose 
Instagram: @NiccoloVecchia

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