The J spot of goodness

Joselito chorizo cappuccino. Joselito eggs carbonara. Pasta, Joselito pancetta and beans. Sbrise and braised porcini, with pine nut mayonnaise and Joselito hamon. Melon and Joselito hamon explosion. After removing the most famous J in the world of food, it is easy to guess the signature that marks these dishes. One last tip: Pjzza bianca with burrata, anchovies and Joselito chorizo. There’s another “j”, that in pjzza, a non-typo that should lead you in the right direction. This is the joke made by Massimiliano Alajmo, chef at Le Calandre in Padua and author, on November 4th, of a formidable dinner that was moved by the most delicious ham in the world.

This was the evening that defined an important changing of the baton: the chef from Padua inherited the sceptre that in 2013 belonged to Ferran Adrià, the first Joselito Lab testimonial, an app designed in 10 languages and dedicated to the creation of recipes and to the in-depth knowledge of the cured meat made with Joselito Iberian pigs, “the best in the world” according to a well-spread definition. Or «the Dom Perignon of Iberia», according to another famous statement, this time made by Adrià himself. For sure, these extraordinary hams, characterised by an extraordinary sweetness and by a ludicrous salinity, can be found in 90% of the 2 or 3 Michelin stars, which has to mean something.

They are made with animals that live completely free for around two years in wild pastures, an ecosystem that is halfway between the Mediterranean wood and the prairie. They can cover as many as 3 hectares each, from one end to the other, dedicated to each animal, a heritage which not even the rich nobles of the past seemed to be able to enjoy. And they only have acorns and grass to eat. You can track this kind of ham from the first cry of the animal, which are already sold out before they are slaughtered: you pay and then pick them up the following year.

«I dreamt of piglets with black paws for a whole week», Alajmo explained at the very beginning of the night, «it fascinates me because it is a symbol of Mediterranean essence and because of the contrast it offers between the resistance and the melting character of its meat. Working with few ingredients was very interesting. A big stimulus. A food experience that was like all magnificent things: something to share». Beside him José Gomez fourth generation of ham-producers, was smiling, with his eyes shining again, one year after dishes such as Joselito butter, Joselito minestrone or Soup of melon and joselito. Dishes by Ferran Adrià whose recipes can be downloaded by everyone. And enriched by the fluid funambulism of a new, famous Italian colleague.