Lima, sleeping on the ocean waterfront
The JW Marriott in the Peruvian capital faces the Pacific Ocean and benefits from the rhythm of the waves and the fog
The Pacific Ocean seen from Lima, from the window of one of the rooms at the JW Marriott in Miraflores
After every trip, everyone asks me where I dined. In my job food is indeed the most important element, yet not the only one. There’s the day, with breakfast, lunch and supper, and there’s the night, time to sleep for sure but a room is also a refuge, a “box” where you can hide and find your intimacy. In Lima, at the end of April, I was a guest in Miraflores at the JW Marriott, JW stands for John Willard, born in 1900, the founder of the empire named after him. The first establishment, a beer business, came at 27, the first restaurant at 32, the first motel at 57, passing away at 84. Already important, in the past 32 years the Marriott group has grown to the extent it’s become, after Starwood recently acquired it, the largest group in the world, with a size that’s difficult to imagine.
by Paolo Marchi
The best of Lima, chef by chef
There’s more than Acurio: a journey through the best restaurants in town, from Maido to Central, from Fiesta to IK
Mater elevations is the name of the tasting menu that makes Virglio Martinez and his Central unique in Lima and across the world. Given the colours, there’s never a single one out of place, all in logic order, it’s easy to think of Virgilio as the Botticelli of South American cuisine
In Italy it happens too, that a chef has more than a restaurant. Usually two, combining the first one, of the highest quality, with a simpler one, something more of a trattoria. The mind goes immediately to Carlo Cracco and Claudio Sadler, with due locations each, in Milan, and Cristina Bowerman in Rome, Moreno Cedroni who in the Marche divides himself between Senigallia and Mount Conero, Gennaro Esposito in Campania between Capri and Vico Equense, Davide Scabin in Piedmont, between Rivoli, north of Torino, and Ivrea.
by Paolo Marchi
The reason of Hungary’s victory
Behind the triumph at the Bocuse d'Or there are state funds and a sound system. Something missing in Italy
Budapest, 12th May: after two days of intense competition, chef Tamás Széll of restaurant Onyx (second to the left) celebrates the victory in the European finals of the prestigious Bocuse d'Or together with his team. 11 European teams will compete in the world finals in Lyon, on 24-25th January 2017, but not Italy
It is a known fact that Italy has never excelled at the Bocuse d’Or. Yet this year the expectations were high for Marco Acquaroli’s participation in the European finals in Budapest. Unfortunately, even this time Italy didn’t qualify for the finals (which means we didn’t even get to the top 11) and the competition was won by Hungarian chef Tamás Széll.
by Tunde Pecsvari
A slowly cooked success
In Lima the president of Peru celebrates the outcome of a strong teamwork which started in 1994
The Global Forum on Gastronomy Tourism was launched in Lima in a congress centre that had opened last year, just in time for a planetary economic meeting. If you read the Peruvian news from the time, 2015, the same year as Expo in Milan, it’s striking how there was the same pessimism, the doubt that Lima, like Milan, wouldn’t make it. Instead, they both di, so 2300 people from 40 different countries met in the slopes of the Andes to discuss about something which is now established but which, until the beginning of the century, simply didn’t exist, at least not with this strength and proportions.
by Paolo Marchi
Who’s Gabriele Corcos?
Tv star in the US (and 48 more countries): we met the chef-entrepreneur who started off from Fiesole
Tuscan Gabriele Corcos is a tv star in the US thanks to his popular cooking programme Extra Virgin on the Cooking Channel (and syndicated in 48 countries around the world). We met him. Here’s his story
When you speak with Gabriele Corcos you feel like you’re in front of a being made of pure adrenalin. If you search him up on Google, a rich biography on Wikipedia appears, only in English, starting like this: "Gabriele Corcos (born October 7, 1972) is an Italian celebrity cook, entrepreneur, and television personality. He is the creator, host, and producer of Extra Virgin on the Cooking Channel. He is also the author of a New York Times best-selling cookbook, Extra Virgin”. Italian celebrity, so much so he won the prestigious James Beard Award 2016 only a few days ago for his tv programme, Extra Virgin. The point is, however, that he’s hardly known in Italy. And this bothers him.
by Carlo Passera
The sweet side of Heinz Beck in Dubai
The story of Francesco Acquaviva, pastry chef at the Bavarian chef’s restaurant in the Emirates
Born in 1990 he already has plenty of experience with great chefs, with Heinz Beck above all. The latter has now sent him to direct the sweet side of his Social by Heinz Beck restaurant in Dubai: Francesco Acquaviva tells his nice tale of career pastry chef at Identità Golose
Having been blessed to arrive in one of the best restaurants in the world, Heinz Beck’s La Pergola, after having visited like every young person many kitchens in Europe in search for an opportunity, I began a first “hands on” training experience in pastry making in the three starred restaurant in Rome.
by Francesco Acquaviva
The rabbit wrapped in the chicken skin
A visit to Ana Roš in Slovenia. Finding out about a transgender main course. With no borders
The Rabbit that wanted to become a chicken, a brand new dish in the menu of Slovenian restaurant Hiša Franko in Kobarid, a main course that depicts the talent of Ana Roš, a chef who is making the spotlights point on the gastronomy of an often neglected country (photo by Zanatta)
by Gabriele Zanatta
Kyiv Cake and others delights
The gastronomic scene of the Ukranian capital is more and more rich. Our storytell, with a recipe
The Kyiv Cake from the restaurant Klukva i Brukva.
Kyiv Kitchen? The first thing that comes to mind is the truly famous Chicken Kiev, but definitely not everything here tastes like chicken. When the local market (bazar) is full of fresh produce from the surrounding villages, one goes for green borsch with sorrel and nettles (no beets, no tomato), fresh cheeses, freshwater fish, Danube herring. We do add sour cream on top of everything, from salad and borsch to sweet cherry varenyky (pierogi), puff cheese fritters or "lazy" cheese dumplings, and, made of milk from green pasture, it makes a difference.
by Marina Mayevska
Best Before with Pietro Leemann
Lisa Casali’s new column debuts. Inviting everyone to cook using 3 ingredients close to their best-before-date
In Lisa Casali’s illustration, the Mediterranean rice cake with asparagus and strawberries by Pietro Leemann, chef at restaurant Joia in Milan. The challenge, launched by the author on the latest Earth Day is that of having chefs and readers create a dish with 3 ingredients from their fridge close to their best before date, so as to enhance them and not waste them. Write to firstname.lastname@example.org
On "Earth Day" we launched a challenge: create a dish with 3 ingredients from your fridge, close to their best before date, so as to enhance them and not waste them. The first to accept the challenge was, it is no coincidence, a chef who has always moved against the tide and is committed in terms of environmental sustainability and enhancement of the vegetal world. It’s Pietro Leemann, chef at Joia in Milan, and his fridge is the first to debut on Best Before, Identità Golose’s new column.
by Lisa Casali
Milan Cuisine Week
Identità supports the idea emerging from the summit between Martina, Sala and the chefs
Paolo Marchi, minister Maurizio Martina and the ex Expo commissary Giuseppe Sala at yesterday’s meeting organised by Identità Golose. They discussed the state of the restaurant industry in Milan, one year after the World Fair
Let’s put it this way: had yesterday’s meeting created by Identità Golose at Fondazione Catella, in Milan, been organised elsewhere – say, Rome – it would have been a simple meeting of institutions and local chefs: a few promises, a little chat and then all off to the final buffet (which was in fact excellent, prepared by host Cesare Battisti). Instead, we were in Milan, and the productive and concrete spirit of the city appears to have influenced the summit which, in less than two hours of discussions, led to an excellent idea: organising a Settimana milanese della Cucina [Milan Cuisine Week] of course with institutions and privates joining forces, as Milan l’è on gran Milan.
by Carlo Passera
Niko rediscovering fire
In Seoul Romito dismisses vacuum cooking and presents his roasted savoy in a country in love with cabbage
A customary picture of Niko Romito as soon as he arrived on the lowest floor of the double bridge, the perfect location for the stands at a very fun and tasty event, Picnic on the bridge, which took place in Seoul on Thursday 5th May, South Korea’s national holiday, a whole day dedicated to celebrating children
Korean Tajarin, with garlic
Seoul enhances its history and takes influences from a bit everywhere so as to become a global gourmet capital
i>Cow parsnip leaf & Tajarin, egg tagliolini, seasoned with toasted garlic and parsnip leaves, presented by Jun Lee, patron chef at Soigné in Seoul. 33 this year, Jun Lee opened his restaurant on 24th December 2014: «I know it’s Christmas Eve but not over here, for me it was the first possible day after the works and tests»
Big celebrations in Astino, Bergamo
On 29th May, Da Vittorio’s fiftieth anniversary and the presentation of Ea(s)t Lombardy
East Lombardy will be the European region of gastronomy in 2017. The prestigious role will be officially presented this 29th May, on the occasion of Da Vittorio’s 50thanniversary
Personal revenge against Pepe
Here’s why the event in Caserta was cancelled: an interview with Daniel Young, curator of Where To Eat Pizza
Daniel Young with Franco Pepe. The latter had to cancel the presentation of his Where To Eat Pizza, which was to be held at Caserta’s Royal Palace. He tells Identità Golose why (photo by Luciano Furia)
Franco Pepe, a triumph with a mystery
He’s the first in Phaidon’s list of the best pizzerias in the world. Yet he won’t go to the presentation in Caserta’s Royal Palace...
Where to eat pizza is the guide to the best pizzerias in the world written by Daniel Young for Phaidon. It assigns the first place to Pepe in Grani from Caiazzo (Caserta), not without some nuisance...
The sharing restaurant
A report on the size of dishes: interview with Catalan Oriol Castro, chef at Compartir
Salted cod cakes with honey at restaurant Compartir. It was opened in April 2012 in Cadaqués in Cataluña by Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch and Mateu Casañas. The restaurant’s concept is anticipated by the name itself: all dishes are to be shared. The success was so big, in 2014 the 3 guys also opened Disfrutar in Barcelona, "avantgarde with strong Mediterranean roots" (photo Francesc Guillamet)
An exploration of the streets of New York, looking for these 100% american vintage places
Il Tom's Restaurant è una vera icona di New York. Non solo dà il titolo a una canzone del 1987 di Suzanne Vega (che cambiò leggermente il nome in Tom's Diner). Ma è stato anche per diversi anni uno dei luoghi in cui si svolgeva la popolarissima sit-com Seinfeld, tra le più seguite nella storia della tv americana
The coolest street in Cape Town
Bree Street has become the centre of the city’s movida. A list of the most interesting places
Giovanna Sartor guides us through Bree Street, the new place for Cape Town’s movida
M.P. White beyond commonplaces
Genius and wildness, professionalism and commercials for a chef who changed the history of cuisine
Tokyo Cervigni presents – debated yet charismatic - Marco Pierre White, the English chef who conquered the French without ever visiting France. Photos are taken from www.marcopierrewhite.co
Peru, 48 times Gaston Acurio
Expected to become a politician, the chef opened as many restaurants as his birthdays. 19 in Lima alone
Fine dining one year after Expo
366 days after the event’s debut, a (positive) evaluation of its contribution to the restaurant industry
The Minister for Agricultural Policies Maurizio Martina, Massimo Bottura, Claudio Ceroni of MagentaBureau, the then Expo commissioner Giuseppe Sala and Prime Minister Matteo Renzi at the Identità Expo temporaryrestaurant, precisely one year ago
The Italian Cuisine Week
The new event was presented at Farnesina: from the 21st till the 27th November our chefs in 130 countries around the world
A significant step was taken to valorise Italian food around the world: for the first time the Work group for the valorisation of high quality Italian cuisine abroad met. Identità Golose was also there
Il Casolare: more than mozzarella
Mimmo La Vecchia’s cheese factory has been experimenting with buffalo milk cheese for a couple of years now
Mimmo La Vecchia, to the right, with his son Benito: the passion for the family dairy business at Il Casolare di Alvignano (Caserta) is genetic
Lima, first stop at the market
In order to understand Peruvian taste, one should visit the one in Surquillo, with lots of quality and gritty Erica
Erica, the owner of the best ceviche stand inside the Surquillo market in Lima
Peru, charming biodiversity
Lima, capital of a country with 2,700 different potatoes, hosts the Global Forum on Gastro Tourism
Those arriving these days at Lima’s international airport, in the great baggage reclaim area will only find posters presenting the Global Forum on Gastronomy Tourism scheduled from the 27th till the 29th April in the Peruvian capital