The restaurant serving pinecones, mushrooms and herbs
In the meseta close to Valladolid an out-of-the-way yet surprising place. Worth the trip
Miguel Ángel de la Cruz us the talented Spanish chef at La Botica de Matapozuelos (Plaza Mayor 2, Matapozuelos - Valladolid. Tel: +34.983.832942)
Studying the evolution of a restaurant from one generation to the other is always interesting. I’m referring to the dialectics in the Vivalda family – father and son – to Antica Corona Reale in Cervere. To the gradual handover between the Santini’s at Al Pescatore in Canneto sull’Oglio. Or, in Spain, to the work of the Morán family in Casa Gerardo, we wrote about it here. It is exactly in Spain that we went – though a little further south – to taste once again the cooking of La Botica de Matapozuelos. We had first been there some time ago, to discover the style of Miguel Ángel de la Cruz, born in 1976, a chef many Spanish critics praise.
by Carlo Passera
| 30-07-2015 | Carlo Mangio
A FoodAct for Italian cuisine
During the second Forum, organised at Expo, the document resulting from the work of ministers and chefs was presented
A final group photo at the end of the work session of the second Forum della cucina italiana, a few hours ago at Expo Milano 2015 (photo Carlo Passera)
Italian cuisine changes, thanks to the allegiance – which would finally appear feasible – between chefs and institutions. On one side there’s the élite of our gastronomy, the diamond tip of the entire movement. On the other, we have institution representatives, for once willing to take precise commitments and then respect them. This was the meaning of the second Forum della cucina italiana, which took place a few hours ago at Expo 2015, with the highest representatives of three ministries, Maurizio Martina (Agricultural policies), Stefania Giannini (Education), Dario Franceschini (Cultural goods and Tourism).
by Carlo Passera
| 28-07-2015 | Primo piano
Scabin and the genesis of the Cyber egg
In 1997 the chef of Combal challenged the perfection of the egg giving it a new shell
This photo is by Francesca Brambilla and Serena Serrani and depicts the perfect Cyber Egg by Davide Scabin, the chef then at Combal in Almese and now at Combal.zero in Rivoli, also in the province of Torino, with the new century. Scabin, in November 1997, in order to fight the boredom of an afternoon spent in the pastry laboratory, decided to try to improve the perfection of an egg by changing its shell. Mission accomplished
In early July, Francesca Martinengo of Agrodolce asked me what was the most delicious dish I hade eaten in a starred restaurant. My answer was Davide Scabin’s Cyber Egg when Combal was still a trattoria at the beginning of Valsusa, on the bends above Almese, and not inside Castello di Rivoli, above Torino. It is basically a “plastic, not pasta, raviolo, something never seen or eaten before, with a filling of caviar and egg yolk. And the scalpel to make a miniscule incision and then suck everything in just one mouthful. It was like sky rocketing in just one second without expecting anything at all”.
by Paolo Marchi
| 28-07-2015 | 09:00 | Affari di Gola di Paolo Marchi
The hemp boom in the kitchen
Cannabis, as an ingredient, could offer wide opportunities. A list of products and locations in Italy
Cannabis sativa is experiencing an increasing use in the kitchen, through oil or flour made with hemp seeds. As it is gluten free, hemp can also be used in pasta, pizza and ice creams too. Piedmontese taste “diviner” Antonio Strumia, gave us a useful list of addresses to better understand this domain
Sgomberiamo subito il campo dagli equivoci: la coltivazione della canapa (Cannabis sativa) ha una lunga tradizione in Italia, soprattutto in campo tessile o farmaceutico, un mondo che si intensificò dalla fine del Settecento. Il contenuto psicotropo (Thc) della grande maggioranza di queste piante è nullo o raramente supera lo 0,2%, quindi se siete a caccia dell’effetto high questo non è il post giusto.
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 26-07-2015 | Dall'Italia
Dining between Garibaldi and Isola
12 (plus one) tasty places where to eat lovely food when strolling in Milan
Ratanà’s beautiful dehors, in the heart of the Isola neighbourhood, allows us to introduce our selection of the best restaurants in this fascinating area of Milan
While last week we presented a series of the best restaurants in one of the popular areas in Milan, Navigli, this week, for our selection of the best in the Milanese gastronomic scene we have used some more elastic borders. The trajectory of this delicious exploration starts in the centre, in Brera, Corso Garibaldi and Via Solferino. Following these roads we will then overtake the new Piazza Gae Aulenti to explore the Isola neighbourhood, for some years now a rather popular destination for nightlife and some good meals. Ready, steady, go!
by Niccolò Vecchia
| 27-07-2015 | Fuori Expo
Eggless, at last
A recipe by Simone Salvini for Meringue wafers made with grass peas, grass pea pâté and coconut butter
Vegan chef Simone Salvini (here together with Luca Cimini who works with him in the kitchen of the new Lord Bio in Macerata) tells us how after a careful research he has found the right way to make meringues... without eggs. Thanks to legumes’ cooking water
For years, Pietro Leemann and I had been thinking of making healthy meringues, tasty but without egg whites. We even prepared some special, totally vegetal dough, made with ingredients that are not always healthy but could create crispy and very light meringues. We mostly used starch, chemical yeast and other unhealthy ingredients. Yet making vegetal meringues can be simple and healthy; you just need to use legumes’ cooking water. Until today...
by Simone Salvini
| 26-07-2015 | 12:00 | Naturalmente
We are Italian cuisine
Our best chefs together in Milan for "100 chef x 10 anni". A book signed by Identità Golose
A group photo from the balcony in Stazione Centrale in Milan: the best in Italian cuisine was summoned for the presentation of "100 chef x 10 anni", a book signed by Identità Golose. Photos by Celestina Ielmoni and Marina Siciliano from Brambilla & Serrani
«Identità Golose allowed us to move ahead! It pulled down every frontier. Italian cuisine, without Identità, would be less interesting. You have the proof in front of you: despite the 39°C, the best chefs in the country are here: it is something very important» says Massimo Bottura, chef number 2 in the world, closing in perhaps the most effective and flattering way the event that summoned inside Sala Reale in Stazione Centrale, Milan, the best of Italian haute cuisine for the presentation of the book celebrating, together with the 100 chefs that changed Italian cuisine, also the organisation that has accompanied this growth, that is to say Identità Golose. Drawing from its archive, with over a decade of work behind, this brand signs this book titled “100 chef x 10 anni”, now available in all bookshops, offline and online.
by Carlo Passera
| 23-07-2015 | Primo piano
Pastry chef Andrea Besuschio gives us a summer recipe based on the new Valrhona Itakuja "Cru"
We asked Andrea Besuschio, a great pastry chef continuing a family tradition with historic Pasticceria Besuschio in the main square in Abbiategrasso, to present us with a chocolate recipe suitable for the high summer temperatures
Even in the summer, our palate needs the rich and craveable taste of chocolate. To enjoy it in the best possible way, it is necessary to think of fresh and aromatic recipes. As in the case of this cake, made with a new Cru by Valrhona called Itakuja, which Gianluca Fusto and I recently presented at Expo Milano 2015, inside the French pavilion. This new product, on sale as of the end of September, allows us to taste a special double-fermented chocolate. It is made with a cocoa from Brazil characterised by an aroma that is similar to passion fruit. During the first fermentation...
by Andrea Besuschio
| 23-07-2015 | Signature Dishes
Ladies and Gentlemen, Italian cuisine
Tomorrow in Milan the awaited presentation of "100 chef per 10 anni", a book by Identità Golose
"100 chef x 10 anni", that is to say "the one 100 chefs who changed Italian cuisine" is the title of the book by Identità Golose and published by Mondadori Electa to be presented tomorrow in Milan at 4 pm in Sala Reale inside Stazione Centrale. You’re all invited!
by Carlo Passera
| 22-07-2015 | Primo piano
Scabin: the Quadraling revolution
The great chef launches a discipline that studies the distribution of tastes and their perception on the tongue
Davide Scabin on the first floor of Identità Expo, the restaurant that hosted the chef from Combal.zero in Rivoli (Torino) from Wednesday till Sunday, last week. The chef from Rivoli announced a law describing the evolutionary coefficient of creativity in the kitchen and a new discipline which he called "Quadraling": it studies the distribution of food primary tastes and the way in which they are perceived on our tongue (photo by Zanatta)
Quando Davide Scabin inventa, c’è lui, la matita e il foglio. Il mondo è tenuto fuori dalla porta perché, spiegò qualche tempo fa, «Il mio grande cruccio è che nasciamo e c’è già una lunga fila di persone che decide per te in quale culla dormirai, quale pigiama indosserai, quali cibi dovrai mangiare e quali evitare. È insopportabile». Ci si sfila dai legacci dei burattinai cancellando le coordinate spazio-temporali che ci collocano qui e ora. Eliminando i riferimenti agli altri cuochi, ai loro stili e ai loro piatti, un esercizio impossibile che allo chef del Combal.zero riesce come a nessuno.
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 20-07-2015 | 14:00 | Zanattamente buono