Cedroni’s Marche (part two)

see part one

Getting lost between the alleys of Senigallia is beautiful. At Furcinon (via Cavour 19, +39.071.64325) you can find the sausage you’ve always dreamt of. Enoteca Galli and Marcheshire sell the best products the region can offer. At Osteria del Teatro (Via Fratelli Bandiera 70, +39.071.60517), Marco, is a host with a rare passion for cheese and wines. Rever, on the other hand, sells some rare handmade jewels.

Pizza is naturally leavened at Michele da Ale and there are products suitable for those suffering of celiac disease too. If you take the Arceviese way, in Ostra Vetere, after the house where my wife Mariella was born, you can find the wines of Ampelio Bucci. If you then turn left, in the direction of Serra de’ Conti (Via Marconi 6, +39.0731.871711) you will discover grass peas. Further on, towards Montecarotto you can find a delicious ricotta produced by Trionfi Honorati.

Following the A14 motorway, I see the sea that looks as though it strongly wanted to come out, as if on a giant screen. Far away, the profile of Mount Conero emerges with its furthest point diving into the sea. The Ancona Nord exit is a mandatory stop for ferries to Croatia and Greece but, going inland, it is also the perfect stop for the best wineries of Verdicchio, from Staffolo to Cupramontana, and towards Fabriano, the homeland of ciauscolo, and of the Frasassi caves.

The next exit, in Ancona Sud, is very dear to me: it leads to Portonovo, through Camerano. While in the midst of the Conero National Park, you wonder if you haven’t got lost but then Il Poggio emerges, the homeland to all the people working in the bay. When you see hotel Emilia, the Trave rock, the lavender and the turquois waters, the heart bursts, and even your stomach is thrilled, thinking of the mosciolo selvatico, a Slow Food presidium. Going further by car, you get closer to Nico’s land. In Portorecanati my deepest thoughts go to Loreto’s Basilica, where Mary’s house from Nazareth is to be found.

And then comes Recanati where I think of Leopardi still in love with Silvia. A more pragmatic eye would go to the Civitanova exit which leads to the famous outlet stores but also to Macerata, where Sferisterio bestows unique cultural moments. In the surroundings there’s the Varnelli family and their anise. From Pedaso you reach Campofilone, the homeland of maccheroncini and in particular of Spinosini - produced by my friend Vincenzo Spinosi. A little after Ascoli the Ascoli style olives made by Zè Migliori are not to by missed - the ultimate street food. He’s been a friend for over 30 years, from the first sommelier course which we attended together. And then there’s Meletti’s anisetta, which is to the Varnelli’s what my friend Uliassi is to me.

Vincenzo Spinosi 's Spinosini pasta in Pedaso, often cooked by Cedroni at the Clandestino

Nearby, the salami produced by Passamonti in Monte Vidon (via Leopardi 12, +39.0734.656109) stand out: his ciauscolo is fantastic. The Grottammare exit reminds me of the lively dinners at Osteria dell’Arancio, where many years ago we used to go to discover what the patron had invented. And it reminds me of Angela Velenosi’s wines too. San Benedetto, with its palms and its beautiful seafront, greets this journey across Marche. I have certainly forgotten many artisans and many products, but I believe I have made you curious to visit a region full of recipes passed on by our grandmothers which we need to highlight and preserve, with knowledge, professionalism and lightness.

2. the end