10-10-2017
Davide Oldani of D’O in Cornaredo and New Yorker Jonathan Benno, soon at the helm of Benno, on the 27th, in front of Eataly Chicago (photo Brambilla/Serrani)
After breaking the ice with pizza, Identità Chicago strengthened day 1 of the fourth edition with a lesson on pasta, filtered by the thoughts of the two chefs who interpret tradition in a very personal way. Davide Oldani is the prophet of Pop cuisine, «which doesn’t refer to my moderate prices», the chef from D’O in Cornaredo immediately points out, «but to seasonal ingredients, a concept I acquired from my mother, who already conceived cooking this way». This thought leads the kitchens of his two recently opened restaurants too, Foo’d at the Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall in Singapore and inside the Shangri-La Hotel at the Fort in Manila, Philippines. The pack of Felicetti spaghetti the chef opened with just one blow on the table brings us back to our theme. «The idea for this recipe comes from the Eighties», starts Oldani in impeccable English. «I was cooking in Milan then and people thought you opened a restaurant to make money and not to make good food. There was much more risotto because pasta was something from the South. Cartoccio, cooking all sorts of things wrapped in foil – meat, fish, vegetables – was very popular... Today I present my new take on pasta in cartoccio»
Cartoccio di Davide Oldani
Spaghettoni croquette with carbonara sauce by Jonathan Benno
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
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by
born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt