My spicy tour of Italy
22-01-2015
Eataly Firenze’s chef Enrico Panero presents his “very hot” five steps at Identità Milano
Enrico Panero together with Massimo Bottura. The young chef from Piedmont at restaurant Da Vinci inside Eataly Firenze will be among the protagonists of Identità Piccanti, within Identità Milano
Identità Piccanti, Spicy Identità, not an easy theme to develop if the intention is to express an interesting concept, one that could intrigue restaurant professionals. This is especially true in Italy, a country where the approach to this theme follows an established script, in which this aromatic note comes always in the shape of a supporting scent, capable, at most, of giving a shake to the dominating flavour of a dish. When, on the contrary, it shows its power, it often ends up in the category of “unpolished” cuisine, if not second-rate: a closed circuit from which one cannot exit, and in which, most of all, spiciness doesn’t look good.
This is not the case in other countries that also have an ancient and refined culinary tradition. I’m referring to Japan, where I worked for two years, starting from 2011 (at Eataly in Tokyo). Over there, cooking, something extremely elegant, includes essential aromas, few ingredients that do not undergo long cooking processes and express totally recognisable characters. Spiciness, therefore, has many chances to stand out. In fact it can even be the main note in a dish, without the latter losing its balance because of this. A good lesson, that is.
Put simply, it’s a savoury cannolo entirely made with couscous. This comes in the shape of a fried and crispy wafer and at the same time it is used in the creamy filling too, made by cooking semolina with pappa al pomodoro, though the latter is inspired by the traditional recipe from Trapani, and thus slightly hot. The result is a new and interesting take on one of the most emblematic Italian dishes abroad, namely cannolo, that continues to perfectly represent its Sicilian character, with its shape and substance.
I thus studied an itinerary, from North to South, in five steps, through the very many regional traditions, finding those that stand out thanks to their use of spicy ingredients. There will thus be space for chilli peppers, pepper, horseradish and whatever may be necessary to highlight Italian excellences. And cutlery won’t be necessary to taste all of this... The goal is to make you travel across the peninsula, while remaining seated.
The events you cannot miss and all the news of topical interest from the food planet
by
born in Piedmont, 1987, he's now the chef of Da Vinci restaurant, inside Eataly Firenze