We’re in rua Freda 21, in the centre of Modena, ten steps away from the doors of Osteria Francescana. Here Giuseppe Palmieri, maître, sommelier and alter ego of Massimo Bottura, has created a meeting point where you can buy, taste, discuss and find a quaint and friendly atmosphere. The staff is young and welcomes you straight away with an artless smile.
“Generi alimentari da Panino” is a pantry dedicated to food artisans from Valle d’Aosta to Sicily, with a menu written on a piece of cardboard hanging on the walls thanks to a simple piece of sticky tape. It is a gastronomic place with furniture created by expert hands with selected materials, an antique Berkel surrounded by delicious food, apparently simple lighting (though behind it there’s the creative mind of light designer Davide Groppi) and an iron table with secret glacettes in which you can place an excellent bottle of Lambrusco or some unusual bubbles from France.
Palmieri chose to invest all his savings in this project, 25 square metres of courage, optimism and entrepreneurial energy: «People must return to eat well by buying the simple ingredients offered by our country, which is a true gastronomic gold mine. We don’t aim for the perfect panino, only the future will tell us how this genre will evolve. However, we need to go back to the alleys of the cities, searching for a product that you can taste on spot or take home to share with family or friends».
Bread arrives three days a week from bakery Pane e pace owned by the Perrone family in Matera, where Palmieri is originally from. The shop is open seven days a week: «The time has come to roll up one’s sleeves», continues Palmieri, «without paying attention to the calendar or to the holidays. This doesn’t mean I want to go against the current. I simply find it necessary, in times like these». His other urgent message is that of conviviality: here you can sit around the iron table, next to other unknown guests, on chairs that recall school benches.
On the table, simple glasses with plain water stand out, or bubbles on the house. At the beginning you feel a little surprised, but then the panini facilitate the dialogue. There’s one that’s delicious:
Coppa di testa e mostarda di Cremona, connubio paradisiaco (Head coppa with Cremona chutney, a heavenly mix). Then there’s the one with
Mortadella, prosciutto, ciccioli and fontina, or the one with
Mozzarella, olives and biscuits. In other words, it’s a delicatessen shop. A shop selling optimism, the contagious one of
Palmieri and of all his team:
Gaby (
Beppe’s wife),
Daniele,
Marta,
Sergio and
Teresa.
Generi Alimentari da Panino
rua Freda, 21
Modena
+39.059.8754382
Open: Mon-Sat, 10am – 10pm; Sun 10am -3pm
