credits: Brambilla - Serrani
lungomare Italia, 11
«What you believe being a piece of meat, actually is a sea turtle filet. And, look, this is not a stuffed pig but a dolphin liver. That’s because my chef is very clever at preserving ocean’s products. Taste these foods: here you are a holoturia marmalade, an absolutely unbeatable recipe for Malaysians people. And, here you are milk cream from cetacean’s udders and sugar from North Sea’s big fuci. And, finally, please let me offer you this anemone marmalade, not worse than those made with more tasteful fruits…». Those words are from Moreno Cedroni, the singer of the most hidden Adriatic ravines. Fish salamis, calamari hot dogs, turbot chops, fish chitterlings: Senigallia sea doesn’t have to do with just beaches, pedalò boats and beach umbrellas.
At the beginning, Moreno dreamed of a career in the navy. But it was just a whim: as soon as he started sailing, he made up his mind purchasing a dismissed place on the Lungomare Italia. Soon it became a restaurant centered on a banal menu, with a corpulent woman in the kitchen: they used to prepare fried fishes, sea salads and even pizza. Some years later those recipes would be totally capsized through a virtuous man’s techniques and calembours worth of a great humorist.
In the middle, two important moments: in 1990 he migrates to the kitchen, with the first birth of some complex recipes and, in 1995, he meets the great maestro Ferran Adrià, the engine of his repentine conversion: «before him», says Moreno, «we were all just bigots».
Registers in Moreno’s philosophy are several: irony, for instance, meets one of the most successful Italian expressions inside Madonnina del Pescatore’s menu. But also inside all other restaurants signed by Cedroni: Clandestino - a light blue gazebo inside the park of Conero -; Anikò - a kiosk in the center of Senigallia and Officina - a shop-laboratory with small boxes and weird fish delicatessen. All these projects lean on the sweet shoulders of Mariella, maestro’s maîtresse and wife.
Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini
Please fill in the fields below to search our Protagonists' database.
A spoon with one of the ravioli from Un coniglio al mare, a dish from the Parallels Experience menu at Il Pagliaccio in Rome. Chef Anthony Genovese is in a state of grace. Photo Tanio Liotta
Some of the speakers who will talk in the Auditorium at the 18th edition of Identità Milano, from the 28th to 30th of January
THE FULL PROGRAMME HERE
TO REGISTER, CLICK HERE
The 18th edition of Identità Milano 2023 is just around the corner. HERE IS THE COMPLETE PROGRAMME IN PROGRESS