via Fiume, 13
Gerbole di Volvera (Torino)
Let's say it clearly: the extra-virgin olive oil rules over Italian cuisine. But new aggressive hierarchies’s subversives begin to sprout on the horizon, ready to undermine the foundations of “oleocracy” with the strength of ideas.
One of the most successful riots in recent years stars this young guy from Moncalieri, not yet 30 years old. After graduating in Agricultural science in Turin, with a thesis on oilseeds and the extraction of oil and flour through cold-pressing processes, he was soon assaulted by the frenzy of inventing new delicacies. Since nothing is created out of nothing, Mattia Pariani contented himself soon to rediscover a forgotten product: the hazelnut oil, a traditional Langhe region product, today almost completely disappeared because of heavy costs and low yields.
After several experiments, there came the squaring of the circle: he gathered carefully fantastic species of Tonda gentile delle Langhe hazelnut (the same magnified into ice-cream by Grom), he squeezed mechanically and toasted a first part and a second one “crude” et voilà: here comes the oil!
The rumour spread soon and the boy, meanwhile organized as an entrepreneur in Cortemilia, the center of production, began to collect awards and to draw the attention of chefs and sophisticated distributors (Jolanda de Colò). Today the revolutionary whisper is slowly crossing even Japan, Germany, Spain, United States and Russia. And it’s extending the united front of oil not-made-with olives: from Bronte pistachios and almonds, for example, that someone like chef Emanuele Scarello uses to blow rice or to "temper" paccheri. New arrows inside the arch of Pariani, the revolutionary.
born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes.
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