04-03-2017
Simone Padoan during the first day at Identità di Champagne
Frédéric Panaïotis, chef de cave at Maison Ruinart, shows a picture of an ancient document: «See, this is the first shipping note of a wine which in the days was called Œil de Perdrix, but in fact was the first Rosé. It’s dated 1764».
Champagne Ruinart Rosé is the protagonist of Identità di Champagne. A product with ancient origins but a modern and vital life. And the three chefs who took part in the first day are equally modern and lively: Caterina Ceraudo, Simone Padoan and Marco Sacco.
Caterina Ceraudo and Frédéric Panaïotis, chef de cave at Maison Ruinart: they had the honour and duty of opening the first lesson on the first day of Identità di Champagne
This is why she chose Podolica meat, a common breed in Calabria, and roses, which you can find in every row of vine. The meat is left to marinate with dry roses for three days. «I tried to represent human work too, pruning, the scent of humus and earth. Because there’s more to Calabria than the summer heat, but also the rain in other seasons. Then there’s Jerusalem artichoke, which is like bark, and sorrel, which can be found in the vineyards». There’s also raspberry oil, to highlight the natural sensations from the rose marinade, and coffee: «A tribute to people working in the vineyards drinking coffee before they start working in the morning and during their breaks». And the pairing with Ruinart Rosé was extraordinary.
Marco Sacco
The freshwater chef, Marco Sacco, closed the first day at Identità di Champagne. He also chose to be daring, as Champagne Rosé, though versatile, could have been overwhelming with a freshwater fish. But Sacco, two Michelin stars at Piccolo Lago, on Lago di Mergozzo, an hour drive from Milan, presented trout. «We chose to respect this dish, which is very delicate, by putting it in hot water, closed in small sachets, for 20 minutes. Hence it is cooked-non-cooked, soft and not stringy». To this he adds a taste “enhancer” a sort of sour cream made with butter, shallot, currants and cream, with a drop of Champagne Rosé, later blended and strained. A perfect pink pairing. Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
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A journalist for La Provincia di Como, sommelier and craft beer lover. He believes every glass of wine has a story worth telling. He's part of the wine editorial staff at Identità Golose