01-12-2016
A fire – possibly malicious, Israel’s premier referred to it as a terrorist attack but this has yet not been officially confirmed – has completely destroyed Rama's Kitchen, a fine dining restaurant on the hills of Judea, less than 20 km from Jerusalem, where chef Tomer Niv tries to recreate the area’s historic stratification of culinary influences with recipes dating back to 1,400 years ago. It is no coincidence that he’s a pupil of Heston Blumenthal. We met Niv only a few days ago: here’s what he told us then, plus the report on the sad events that followed (photo by Jessica Steinberg/Times of Israel)
Our collaborator Fabiana Magrì calls from Tel Aviv: «They have set fire to Rama’s. There have been many malicious fires in that area, they say it could be a new form of terrorism», or intifada if you wish. But when? How? Readers might also wonder where? To what? So a premise is necessary: Rama’s Kitchen, in Nataf, less than 20 km to the north-east of Jerusalem is the restaurant where chef Tomer Niv, a sort of Israeli Heston Blumenthal, after all he also worked at Fat Duck (and The Ledbury, and Noma) has been working since 2008. Here he reapplied the former’s ideas, but on the hills of Judea: a twice-interesting project.
We met him two weeks ago in Milan. He told us of his work recuperating the ancient recipes of the region, «some date back to 1,400 years ago». A way to give a historical element to the modern local cuisine which has a thousand different influences given in the last few decades by all the countries around the world, by those returning after the diaspora.
Rama Ben Zvi, patron at Rama's Kitchen, with chef Tomer Niv
The resulting recipes have clean and very intense flavours, with a strong use of acidity, spiciness, bitterness: «Let’s remember there were no tomatoes. Nor potatoes», Niv sums up, meaning that it was missing the kind of ingredient that can soften and please the palate. In this case instead it is strongly stimulated, «for instance I use a pomegranate reduction to contrast the lamb fat». And then contemporary logic: «All the fruit and vegetables are organic, we either grow them personally or buy them from nearby farmers while the herbs grow in our vegetable garden (run by Uzi, Rama’s husband – she’s the patron after whom the restaurant is named) surrounding the restaurant and part of a nearby hill, where many edible species thrive. Harvest is part of our daily routine».
A dish at Rama's Kitchen
Not these ideas, but everything else was burnt. The surroundings had been affected by fires for days. The final episode on Friday. «It was very simple – owner Rama Ben Zvi, shaking her head, told the Times of Israel – A guy threw a firebomb on the other side of the fence, and one hour later there was no more restaurant». Destroyed in ten minutes. Nataf overlooks a group of Palestinian villages on the West Bank, less than 5 km away. But there’s no official confirmation to Rama’s reconstruction. Responsibilities must still be clarified.
The restaurant was hosting a wedding when it was evacuated. Something that had already happened in the village, «the first fire was on Wednesday – says Ben Zvi – when some Arab workers were preparing coffee under a tree and their machine accidentally caused a fire that quickly spread and burnt a house». So at least the beginning was accidental.
Rama Ben Zvi among the ruins of her restaurant
Rama received a phone call from Israeli premier Benjamin Netanyahu: «He called to offer his condolences and to reassure the State will reimburse damages as this was a terrorist attack. You know, I’m not that kind of person. But Bibi told me they’ll be very quick». The desire to start again is strong: Rama and her husband have been living in Nataf for 25 years, and opened Rama’s Kitchen 21 years ago.
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by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief