04-07-2018
Rib-eye with insect chintexle, one of the most interesting dishes at restaurant Criollo in Oaxaca, Mexico (photos in this piece from In Sinister)
For some years now, the state of Oaxaca has become one of the world’s main culinary destination, a mandatory point of reference on the gastronomic map of Mexico. An endless source of flavours and traditions attracting food pilgrims in search of new experiences.
As part of this trend, many new restaurants have emerged, especially in the capital, Oaxaca de Juárez. Among these, are restaurants with a more sophisticated offer, reflecting and respecting the humble origins of the local cuisine. These are places where you can experience the perfect match of tradition and modernity. Restaurant Criollo is one such example.
It is the result of the ambitious project of chef Luis Arellano, supported by the famous Enrique Olvera of Pujol, his business partner, and by the beautiful design of Javier Sánchez, one of the most influent Mexican architects, who’s also part of this venture. The establishment is a tribute to the products of Oaxaca and to seasonality: this is why the menu changes daily, offering guests ingredients of the highest quality and as fresh as possible.
Chef Luis Arellano
Rustic setting
After working with Olvera and Alejandro Ruiz, chef at Casa Oaxaca, Arellano decided to take a separate road and created his own culinary style, where a simple and honest presentation allow the ingredients to shine in all their beauty. Criollo is his return home, to his origins, a present offered to his homeland, enhancing the variety and beauty of the cuisine of Oaxaca.
Criollo is located in an old colonial house. The route to the dining room leads to the heart of the restaurant, the kitchen. Guests can all see the fresh ingredients used for the menu, and then go to their respective tables, admiring the cook making traditional tortillas on a large comal (a sort of grill) made of clay at the entrance of the patio.
Chile poblano with Pipián verde with courgettes, asparagus and Istmeño cheese
Turbot with potato confit and prickly pear sauce
Finally, the excellent selection of mescal also deserves a mention. The famous spirit is mostly produced here in the region of Oaxaca.
Corn churros
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Criollo Calzada Madero 129 Oaxaca de Juárez Mexico reservaciones@criollo.mx Tasting menu: 690 (lunchtime), 748 (dinner), 1.350 (with wines) Mexican pesos Closed on Monday
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Chef, journalist, a Phd in Italian linguistics, author of books on the theme, experiences that converge in the same profession, from writing to cooking, from cooking to journalism and back to cooking. The same that led him to write for Mexican magazines such as Protocolo, Saborearte and Siempre