Now that everyone can say that they all knew Redzepi’s Noma would have returned to number one, the question that comes natural in London is: is it better to arrive third twice, or first once and then second the following year? In other words: is Massimo Bottura happier, with his second bronze medal at the 50Best than the Roca brothers who return second, straight away, overcome by René? I’d say Massimo. Of course it is true that many people, mostly from Italy and few from abroad, thought he would get to the first place but in this global context it’s not just a question of the chef’s talent, or that of his team, but one also need to take into consideration the different elements that surround each restaurant. Think of Italy’s current economic situation.
Besides, it was nice to have lunch at the Istituto italiano di cultura in Belgrave Square, an invite made by Acqua Panna S.Pellegrino. On the tables, one found various excellent products from Italy, cheese and cured meat, olive oil and balsamic vinegar, pasta, Lavazza coffee and wine, but this increases the rage. Had we little, it would be ok, but indeed with have a lot – including the political-administrative madness. Full stop.
Happy René Redzepi: for the fourth time, his Noma in Copenhagen is on top of the world, having overcome Celler de Can Roca
Edition number 12. Redezpi reaches
Ferran Adrià: four first places for the Danish chef, and four for the Catalan, in 2006/07/08/09, though
René has also experienced the bitterness of the step backwards, when last year he came second after winning three times. And yesterday, he was once again celebrating without anyone from his team dressed with Viking helms or similar folklore.
The evening was more calm and perhaps not so full of pathos as last year. Even with regards to Italy. The energy was completely different compared to that in 2013. Last
Nadia Santini was awarded as best female chef in the world (this time it was the turn of
Helena Rizzo of
Mani in Sao Paulo),
Umberto Bombana, three Michelin stars in Hong Kong with
Otto e mezzo, was among the 50 Best (39th, now at 67th) and the same goes for
Davide Scabin (40th with Combal.zero) now out by a small place at 51. Same for Il Pescatore of the Santini family which slides to 91st position, while three glorious Italians remain: Bottura third,
Enrico Crippa of
Piazza Duomo in Alba 39th and
Max Alajmo of
Le Calandre 46th.
Jordi Roca, the youngest of the three Roca brothers in Girona, Spain. In London, he was awarded as best pastry-chef in the world in the 2014 edition of the 50 Best
One could turn up one’s nose, disappointed: how can it by that the homecountry of pasta and pizza doesn’t win over everyone, doesn’t invade this list? It can be, we’re the world’s masochism, ill-speaking, improvisation champions.
It’s not just that, however: we have too many good chefs. Apart from the mass of starred restaurants, 329 altogether, with professionals such as the ones in the list and other colleagues at the same level,
Romito,
Cracco,
Cedroni,
Uliassi,
Cuttaia,
Cannavacciuolo,
Esposito…, one ends up scattering the votes while elsewhere one can often have few chefs among whom to choose. Besides, there’s the backstage politics, in favour of Spain/South America and England/North America, plus huge Asia. Those who want to do business go where there’s money and high gourmet cuisine is an advertising tool for tourism and food.
Massimo Bottura and Daniel Humm, respectively third and fourth in the 2014 50 Best in London
Some important notes: the lifetime achievement award goes to Fergus Henderson, at the helm of St.John here in London, one who supported Anglo-Saxon tradition much earlier than Heston Blumenthal with his Dinner (which came fifth, and how sad to see his Fat Duck at 47 after being at the top nine years ago). Jordi Roca is the Best Pastry Chef. The Chefs’ Choice Award goes to Brazilian Alex Atala. The protagonist of the best leap ahead was Virgilio Martinez with Central in Lima, from 50th to 15th place, even better than his mentor Gaston Acurio, 18th. The best debut in the 50 Best was finally that of Gaggan of Gaggan Anand in Bangkok, 17
th.
Top 10: 1. Noma (second last year), 2. El Celler de Can Roca (third last year), 3. Osteria Francescana (confirmed), 4. Eleven Madison Park (fifth, +1), 5. Dinner by Blumenthal (seventh, +2), 6. Mugaritz (fourth, -2), 7. DOM (sixth, -1), 8. Arzak (eighth, confirmed), 9. Alinea (was 15th, +6), 10. Finally The Ledbury (13th, +3). Spain starts to move back, no response from France at the top and Bottura is ready to jump in 2015. In October, for instance, he will have a temporary restaurant inside Claridge’s, just like Redzepi one year ago. Being in London during voting can only be a good choice.
