15-11-2021
A frame from the beginning of the documentary
For a few years now, meat consumption has been under attack for ethical, sustainability and health reasons. Pablo Rivero, patròn at Don Julio Parilla in Buenos Aires, best restaurant in 50Best Latin America (we wrote about it here) and 13th in the World's 50Best presented a few weeks ago, does not agree. He tells us a different story, that debunks the dominating view through facts, data and examples.
Demonising meat, according to Rivero, is a conceptual mistake: what must be demonised is the industrialisation process of meat production, that is to say the passage from extensive farming to feedlot. It's intensive farming that is responsible for all the bad that is mistakenly ascribed to meat per se: the high levels of CO2 emissions in the atmosphere, the waste (bad management) of precious resources like water, the meagre and immoral life conditions of the animals, the poisoning of meat and the consequent issues for people's health and the planet's health too. All this, for food of the lowest standards.
We had already heard a similar statement from another Argentinian at the top of the world: Mauro Colagreco. With his project CARNE, the three-starred chef and number one in the world in 2019 with Mirazur in Menton, aims at stimulating a change in the way food is produced. A change that would affect humanity's two main issues: the environment and the food emergency (we wrote about this project and the ideas behind it here).
How to do so, according to Pablo Rivero, is through regenerative farming (or holistic farm management).
What is regenerative farming, in a nutshell? (we'll leave the details to the links and four chapters at the end of the article, subtitled in English). It's a rational management of the field, which is divided into plots of around half a hectare, depending on the number of animals, with access to water. Divided into many plots (we're talking of a hundred, sometimes, and in this case the endless spaces of the Argentinian pampas come in our help for sure). Through removable fences, the animals are led to occupy only one plot per day. The next day they are moved to another plot and so on. Moving to the new plot (which has been left uncultivated for months) they will find very rich pastures. The one they've left, instead, will have all its vegetal material eaten, but the soil covered (the plants are not uprooted, it's not necessary to sow them again). As the months go by, the plants will grow again, and when doing so they will synthetise and absorb the carbon dioxide, which they will fix in the soil, nourishing it. This soil is also fertilised by the cattle's excrements and urine. The pastures managed in this way experience a constant vegetative cycle (of 365 days per year, the plot is left untouched for 360) and therefore the soil is gradually enriched, constantly absorbing not only the carbon dioxide produced by the animals, but also the one produced by others.
The results can be measured through different indicators that monitor the health of the soil and appreciating the concrete results: «we produce twice as much pasture and three times the meat» the interviewed farmers guarantee.
«Farmers once had a noble function of feeding the world» says Ezequiel Sack of estate La Emma, interviewed in the third chapter of the documentary. «A very noble and important function. I believe that today, the function is not only to feed the world, but to save it too».
Ch. 1 - Gastón Pierri, tenuta Santa Juana, Chascomús (Buenos Aires)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DfKpMNqXyo&t=11s&ab_channel=ParrillaDonJulio
Cap. 2 - Walter y Mimi Lorenz, tenuta El Remanso del Salado, Casteli (Buenos Aires)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avqLnMP3ua8&ab_channel=GrupoArgos
Cap. 3 - Ezequiel Sack, tenuta La Emma, Punta Indio (Buenos Aires)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6D7znB5ww4&ab_channel=ParrillaDonJulio
Cap 4 - Robén Oliverio, tenuta Doña Elena, Ramallo (Buenos Aires)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijTa_OohC1s&t=18s&ab_channel=ParrillaDonJulio
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by
born in 1979 in Milan, her mother is from Alto Adige and her father is a Croatian grown up in Trieste: she’s the daughter of Italian irredentism and is strongly attracted by the southern hemisphere. She has written (for Diario and Agrisole among others), translated (includingPellegrino Artusi’sLa scienza in Cucina ), eaten and tasted – without ever stopping taking pictures – in Argentina, Chile and Guatemala for over 5 years. Since she had to move to Italy, she went as south as she could. Since 2016 she lives in Sicily, and collaborates with Wine in Sicily and Identità Golose
Aramburu's brigade with, third from right, chef-patron Gonzalo Aramburu, the one with the moustache: he has recently been awarded two Michelin stars, the first restaurant in Argentina (he is in Buenos Aires) to win the prestigious accolade
Mauricio Couly, a passion for great international cheese, which he reinterprets in Patagonia
Our reporter Giovanna Abrami tells us about Don Julio in Buenos Aires, at the top of the 50Best Latin America. His signature dish is entraña (a cut which refers to the peripheric part of the animal's diaphragm)