Cracco a Palazzo

First of all, let’s try to quench the curiosity of all the drivers who, at the entrance of Brera, jam on the breaks in front of the new majestic building, roll down the window, observe with their sunglasses and make the insensible people behind them go mad. This 7-floor spaceship on the corner between Via Fatebenefratelli and Corso di Porta Nuova landed on the ruins of what was once Palazzo Kramer, a building disfigured by war bombings, thanks to the Giambelli’s, a family of builders from Brianza who entered the arena of the Milanese 5 star luxury hotels.

It’s not our task to linger on the grandeur-style architecture with which they take the challenge (with wrought iron, suites, baroque decorations, gold, stuccos, the attic, the frescos in what will be the Spa), built over the five years it took to complete Palazzo Parigi. We could however stress the bizarre name given to this building, chosen because of the fascination the French culture has on the owners. However, it’s best to focus on the one chosen for the scenic restaurant recessed on the ground floor, to the right: it is called Cracco a Palazzo, «And I’ve chosen this without even expecting any royalties», the chef from Vicenza says on the doorstep, glowing for this adventure that officially began yesterday at lunch time.

«We’ve been working on this for 3 years», he says, «but there’s still lots to be done. I’ve paid, and will continue to pay all the attention you give to a second home». After all, it is unquestionable: the main residence of Carlo Cracco remains that in via Victor Hugo. Here, however, a 5 minute motorbike ride away («I sometimes zoom»), the chef has contributed in designing many extra-chef details too: the layout of the Caffè, in front of the restaurant, that of the veranda outside and even the creation of an interesting tunnel made with mirrors and crystals, dividing the dining room into two parts. It snakes out, so to speak, from the kitchen and stops one metre before the large (and expensive) granite surface with induction hobs placed in the middle. «In the future», he reveals, «we will finish many dishes there: cooking the pasta, portioning the main courses…».

Time for the kitchen. The news that stands out is that here you need to consider not only lunch and dinner, but all the meals of a luxury hotel: breakfast, snacks and room service included. Nothing new to the chef, however, since «I did this for many years at the Albereta with Gualtiero Marchesi», two decades ago. The restaurant menu is ideally divided into two sections: the à-la-carte menu on the left page – starters, pastas and risottos, fish and meat main dishes – has the objective of reassuring the most valuable clientele, that of the hotel itself (at operating speed, there will be 98 rooms and suites). With dishes such as Saffron rice or Red prawns with porcini mushrooms and herb butter it’s as if the masterchef (soon to be a hell’s chef) expressed himself on the sly. Who, however, wouldn’t want to try a classic version of Cracco? Van Basten was great even at line outs, after all.

On the right page, instead, one can find the tasting menu which glows with the creativity that is more typical of him, with new yet very Cracchian dishes such as the opening Mussels and sausage or the Ravioli filled with meat paté with anchovy colatura. This journey is dedicated to the clients who sleep in their own houses like us (and in fact we chose the tasting menu: see the photo-gallery below for every detail). After all, at the end of the tunnel that leads us to the kitchen, radiates the light of Diego Giglio, historic left arm of Cracco in via Hugo (the right arm being that of Matteo Baronetto, chef in charge in the headquarters): in Porta Nuova, Giglio guides a brigade made of 12 people, «who are still few», sighs the insatiable Cracco. The pastry-station is run by the expert French-Italian Pascal Piermattei, «a great true pastry-chef», that is to say a more orthodox professional, in comparison to Luca Sacchi in the other restaurant. We’re curious to find out where the dialogue between the chef from Vicenza and that from Nice will lead.

Finally, it needs to be said that some very promising professionals walk across the room and behind the cocktail bar at the Caffè. Under the maître d'hotel, Simone Bongiorni, the wine list (and partly the artisanal beer list) is designed by the bright Matteo Ghiringhelli, born in 1986 in Milan who’s back in town after 8 years spent in France (at Enrico Bernardo’s Il Vino and at Georges V in Paris) and England (at the Waterside Inn in Bray, 3 Michelin stars). Rotating stirrers and shakers in the room opposite, instead, there’s 30 year old Filippo Sisti from Stradella, previously filling chalices in a super-hotel such as the Grand Hotel et De Milan but also satisfying Rita’s anarchic clientele in the Navigli area. Therefore, we will be able to taste some very interesting cocktails – after all, Cracco has a say here as well. Would you ever expect to drink badly, in his pied-à-terre?

Cracco a Palazzo
Palazzo Parigi
corso di Porta Nuova, 1
+39.02.625625
Milan
Prices: starters 45, first courses 38, main courses 58, meat 50, desserts 30 euros
Tasting menu: 185 euros
(3 glasses of wine 40 euros, 5 for 65 euros and 7 for 90 euros)
Closed: on Sundays at lunchtime and on Mondays the entire day