The raw-diet avantgarde

When we speak about raw diet, we can refer to a life-style, a diet choice or simply a series of gastronomic techniques. Raw diet includes something profoundly ancient and modern at the same time, so much so it is considered one of the most interesting gastronomic avantgarde in the last few years. While in Italy the number of chefs who stand out for offering raw dishes in high cuisine is still limited, abroad public success has consecrated many chefs because of these innovative raw offers.

There are essentially two principles on which raw diet is based: the first is the exclusive use of vegetal ingredients, the second is the fact that preparations must never exceed 42°C, above which degradation and enzyme and vitamin (A, C, E and group B) loss occur.

Cereals and legumes, for instance, are germinated or sprouted, so as to become tender and digestible. Oil seeds are soaked in water and fermented, and are at the basis of various preparations. Fruits and vegetables are prepared and transformed through marinating, fermenting, drying or simply prepared with special cutting techniques.

For some chefs, embracing these techniques coincides with a radical choice in life, for others it represents an opportunity to obtain innovative and surprising results. Dishes cooked following raw techniques, indeed unite environmental sustainability and pleasure for the eyes and the palate.

Speaking of which, I asked chef Daniela Cicioni a few questions. She’s a consultant specialised in raw cuisine who told me how she was charmed by the infinite possibilities offered by these techniques, even though she did not renounce to the more traditional ones. According to the chef, understanding raw cooking techniques can enrich your cuisine but in order for these dishes to be complete in all respects, it is necessary to have a specific training on the principles of vegetal nutrition, in particular with regards to vegetal proteins.

What changes in the organisations of the cooking stations? «As for express preparations, there’s no special difference because raw versus traditional cooking times are similar. As for those preparations that need to be prepared in advance, raw cuisine requires much longer times because few days and hours are needed to soak, ferment, dry, but it is only a matter of planning and of organising the stations differently» – Daniela Cicioni replies.

Among the protagonists of this high cuisine trend abroad, popular names such as Matthew Kenney, Russell James, Omid Jaffari, Chad Sarno, Doug McNish, authors of numerous volumes and television programmes, stand out.

In Italy the number of chefs who emerge thanks to their raw offer are still few, even though this number is certainly destined to increase. On the other hand, there are already many people who have an awareness and training role, such as Laura Cuccato (SaltoNelCrudo.it), Ani Phyo, Anya Kassoff of Golubka, Cristina Archila.

If when thinking of raw diet only salads and cold vegetable creams come to your mind, pay a visit to their websites. You might soon have the chance to taste some surprising dish prepared with these technique or perhaps you will fancy trying for yourself.