09-08-2021
Yes, of course, we didn't stop too long, after February 2020, and now that we are out again, we're all trying to rush and make up for the lost time so much so that days should have 36 hours to be able to do everything. But we were still very surprised of the invitation that came from Alba late in May, for Enrico Crippa's latest menu at Piazza Duomo, the restaurant owned by the Cerettos. We were all surprised because for the first time since the restaurant opened 16 years ago, in 2005, Crippa has dedicated a tasting menu to Barolo. And everyone now wonders why only now.
The answer came on Thursday 1st of July in the glasses, six glasses, one per each Barolo presented, and each one very different from the stereotypes that have always accompanied this champion of Italian, and global, oenology. All from the Cerettos, but this is an exception because in time the menu will allow to “discover the many facets of Barolo through the peculiarities of each town, style and philosophy”. Hence other producers too, and it's certainly uncommon to allow a territory to grow by involving the competition as well.
Enrico Crippa at work in the kitchen at Piazza Duomo in a photo from Letizia Cigliutti Vincenzo Donatiello, sommelier, hid the first by using the term “Al buio”, only to reveal later that it was a Prapò 2008, followed by Bussia 2015, Brunate 2013, Bricco Rocche 2006 and Cannubi San Lorenzo 2009. They accompanied ten moments of a particularly successful lunch, in terms of concept, company and atmosphere, so much so that it reminded me of the times, back between the Nineties and the Zeros, when I still hadn't created, together with Claudio Ceroni, Identità Golose. Following then the birth of the so-called Nuova Cucina Italiana, especially between Spain and Italy, was an absolute pleasure so much so it rarely felt like work, though it was.
Enrico Crippa at work in the kitchen at Piazza Duomo in a photo from Letizia Cigliutti
Roberta Ceretto said: «For us this is a real party after stopping for a long time because of the pandemic but also because of many news like the purchase of new vineyards, and this menu had us pull out of the drawers notes and ideas which we hadn't pursued because we were too busy. In this sense, covid has helped, we discussed about it and this is the result: dishes that for the first time are married with the flagship wine of the family and of the area. But do not worry, the vegetables that our chef holds so dear are still here».
Enrico Crippa: L'Albese
A long teamwork that involved even roles, like the oenologist, who don't usually belong to the kitchen. «We first discussed the project on the 20th of January. We were too many, discussing, tasting, judging. It wasn't easy». For multiple reasons, including the significant fact that Ceretto no longer follows the dreamy attitude of Bruno Ceretto who mostly followed his instinct, as an authentic patron, but is now a structured reality with a practical management. Now every division must walk with its own legs and produce profit, including Piazza Duomo.
Enrico Crippa: Wild garlic risotto
And the tasting? I like to quote the service notes of Vincenzo Donatiello: «Lingue di suocera and Arlette: Parmigiano wafer, almond cream, lemon zest and pepper.
Enrico Crippa: King trumpet
«Insalata vignaiola: An endive pastry filled with green lettuce, apple, salsa verde, hazelnut, walnuts, veal tongue and Raschera.
«L’Albese: Fassona Carpaccio, black truffle, black truffle sauce and hazelnuts.
«Hazelnut roll and veal broth.
Enrico Crippa: Vacca podolica
«Carlo Alberto bread: Bread made for the soldiers during the war, made with anchovies, butter and hazelnuts. We kept the same recipe and pair it with Marchand de vin butter.
«Risotto with wild garlic: Riso Carnaroli mixed with a cream of wild garlic, Parmigiano and flowers.
«King trumpet and summer black truffle.
«Biova: Traditional bread from Piedmont, similar to Michette. We rediscovered it for the menu as it's now hard to find in a restaurant. You can mostly find it in regional bakeries.
«Pumpkin seed brittle with Malghesino, a blue cheese from the region south of Lodi, with dehydrated raspberries and frizzy pazzy.
«Strawberry vacherin: a cylinder of meringue, almond biscuit, strawberry sorbet, whipped cream and powdered yogurt; Strawberry salad and Moscato gelatine; Torta Paradiso; Drink of dog rose and hibiscus.
Enrico Crippa: Zabaione
Final detail: the Barolo menu is available for 500 euros, including wines of course. It's basically forbidden for non-drinkers because the dishes are designed based on the wines. I'll ask Crippa.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Enrico Crippa: Snails and polenta
A mouth watering page, published every Sunday in Il Giornale from November 1999 to the autumn of 2010. Stories and personalities that continue to live in this website
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born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose. blog www.paolomarchi.it instagram instagram.com/oloapmarchi